THE M RATINGS REQUIREMENTS
The Angeles Chapter allows leaders at the M level to be certified in both rock and snow, rock only, or snow only:
• M rating: Qualified to lead all M-level outings—rock, snow, or rock and snow combined
• M-rock rating: Qualified to lead all M-rated outings where M-level rock travel (but no M-level snow travel) is required
• M-snow rating: Qualified to lead all M-rated outings where M-level snow travel (but no M-level rock travel) is required.
Training and certification for M-rock [snow] rating are based on current standards for the M-rating, including
• Be an I-rated leader (or see below for new leader candidates and O-rated leaders)
• Pass an M rock or snow technical checkout. See Home page for list of events.
• Be current in wilderness first aid and CPR. See First Aid for more information.
• Complete an M-level written exam
• Provide evidence in a climbing resume of experience on an appropriate number of rock [snow] experience trips at Class 3 or higher to reach provisional status, as assessed by the Provisional Lead Committee of LTC.
• For M-rock: lead a provisional outing including at least 100 feet of 3rd class rock climbing
• For M-snow: lead a provisional outing consisting of at least 400 feet of elevation gain on a snow slope between 25 and 35 degrees and requiring the use of an ice axe.
If a leader candidate for M-rock or M-snow is not a rated leader or is an O-rated leader, these are the additional requirements:
• Complete two days (14 hours) of Environmental Awareness training.
• Pass the I/M-level Navigation check-off
• Lead a second provisional outing at the I- or M-level that demonstrates navigation, and one for M-rock or
M-snow (see above); both provisional outings should include a significant amount of off-trail wilderness travel that requires I/M level navigation (one provisional lead must be a backpack).
The requirements for the full M (both rock and snow) remain the same, requiring two M-level provisional outings, one on rock and one on snow.
THE E RATINGS REQUIREMENTS
E rating: Qualified to lead all currently-defined E-level outings—rock, snow, or rock and snow combined
E-rock rating: Qualified to lead all currently-defined E-rated outings where E-level rock travel (but no E-level snow travel) is required
E-snow rating: Qualified to lead all currently-defined E-rated outings where E-level snow travel (but no E-level rock travel) is required
The requirements for the full E (both rock and snow) remain the same. Training and certification for the E-rock or E-snow rating1 are based on the following standards:
• Be a full M-rated leader if seeking an E-rock or E-snow rating (M rating not required for full E rating)
• Pass the applicable E-technical checkout (rock for E-rock or snow for E-snow) and the E-level navigation checkout
• Provide evidence in a climbing resume of experience on an appropriate number of rock/snow experience trips at Class 4 or higher to reach provisional status, as assessed by the Provisional Lead Committee of LTC
• For E-rock: lead two provisional outings including at least 200 feet of 4th class rock climbing that requires the use of ropes and belays1
• For E-snow: lead two provisional outings consisting of at least 800 feet of elevation gain on a snow slope greater than 35 degrees requiring the use of an ice axe and crampons1
• All provisional E outings must be approved by the LTC's Provisional Lead Committee (PLC) and the national Mountaineering Oversight Committee (MOC).
• Complete an E-level written exam.
If a candidate first obtains an E-rock or E-snow rating, the candidate needs to complete one additional provisional outing on the applicable terrain for the full E-rating.
PROVISIONALS
All provisionals must be approved by the Provisional Lead Committee (PLC) and the Mountaineering Oversight Committee (MOC). For more on PLC and MOC, scroll down on Advanced Ratings. PLC coordinator contact: ltcprovisionalleadcommittee@gmail.com.