A COLLECTION OF ANCIENT TRIP REPORTS
This collection of documents draws mainly on trip reports published in early issues of The Sierra Echo and the Desert Peaks Section Newsletter (as the latter was then known). These reports chronicle some of the issues faced by the SPS during its formative years, including the need to limit campfire size in order to conserve wood. Other matters covered included the need to stop trying to run trips into the high country late in the season when becoming snowed in was a risk; the difference that road building has made in access to some of the peaks southwest of Lone Pine; and why it was wise to alert local law enforcement of a party's entering infrequently visited parts of the high country when no one normally would be there. There also are several examples of the relationship between the SPS and the DPS, the latter of which once regularly scheduled trips into the Sierra as part of its mission. The "Temple Crag" and "The Thumb" reports from 1952 are good examples of the DPS's early interest in mountains other than those in the desert.
THE FIRST YEARS OF OFFICIAL SPS TRIPS
The Sierra Peaks Section became an official entity of the Angeles Chapter of the Sierra Club in October 1955 and offered its first scheduled trips in 1956. The trips into the Sierra Nevada numbered 19 and included Matterhorn Peak in the north, Mts. Whitney and Williamson in the middle of the range, and Owens Peak in the south. A 20th trip was a joint undertaking with the Desert Peaks Section to what then was an unnamed summit in the Inyo Mountains. Everyone now knows that peak at Mt. Inyo. By going over the materials available on these trips, readers will find many changes have occurred in the past half-century. No entry permits were required in 1956, and the size of parties often was quite large. Campfires were a normal part of the backcountry experience, and wood was then plentiful. What hasn't changed, however, is the fervent love of the mountains that is the hallmark of the climber.
The records have been extracted from the Angeles Chapter Schedule and the chapter's newsletter, Southern Sierrran. The SPS publication, Sierra Echo, did not begin publishing until February 1957, so those persons wanting information about the early trips needed to look elsewhere.
Note: Dates for 12-Sep-52 & 26-Sep-56 do not match dates in writeups.
12-Sep-52, Temple Crag, John Delmonte
12-Sep-52, The Thumb, John Delmonte
5-May-56, Deer Mountain, Frank Sanborn
26-May-56, Maggie Mountain, Frank Sanborn
2-Jun-56, Mount Gilbert, George Wallerstein
9-Jun-56, Trail Peak, Patricia Meixner
23-Jun-56, Matterhorn Peak, Patricia Meixner
30-Jun-56, Alta Peak, Patricia Meixner
7-Jul-56, Mount Whitney, Patricia Meixner
14-Jul-56, Goat Mountain, Patricia Meixner
14-Jul-56, Mount Ritter, Patricia Meixner
11-Aug-56, University Peak, Patricia Meixner
11-Aug-56, Mount Gould, Dragon Peak, Patricia Meixner
18-Aug-56, Mount Lamarck, Mount Darwin, Patricia Meixner
25-Aug-56, Mount Irvine, Jerry Keating
1-Sep-56, Mount Williamson, Mount Bernard, Trojan Peak, Patricia Meixner
15-Sep-56, Cardinal Mountain, Bud Bingham
15-Sep-56, Mount Silliman, Frank Bressel
22-Sep-56, Mount Morrison, Miles Brubacher
26-Sep-56, Tunnabora Peak, Frank Sanborn
6-Oct-56, Mount Rixford, John W. Robinson
20-Oct-56, Mount Inyo, John W. Robinson
11-Nov-56, Owens Peak, Miles Brubacher
25-May-57, University Peak, Patricia Meixner
3-Aug-57, Mount Agassiz, John W. Robinson
2-Nov-57, Moses Mountain, Frank Sanborn
16-Nov-57, Muah Mountain, Jerry Keating
24-May-58, Muah Mountain, Frank Sanborn
9-Aug-58, Vandever Mountain, Sawtooth Peak , Tom Ross
16-May-59, Mount Bradley, Jerry Keating
May-61, North Maggie Mountain, Moses Mountain, Andy Smatko
May-62, North Maggie Mountain, Moses Mountain, John Robinson
24-Oct-64, Mount Muah, Wonoga Peak, Frank Sanborn
Temple Crag - 2-Aug-52 - By: John Delmonte
Climbing enthusiasts from Los Angeles and San Diego back-packed up the North Fork of Big Pine Creek to the third lake. Though warm, the weather was superb and Big Pine Creek cascaded down to the valley below in a full torrent. Bob Bear appeared early on the scene and in the company of Gary Bratt scouted the peak on Saturday, ascertaining that some third class climbing was necessary enroute to Temple Crag. There were 26 making camp that night at Third Lake, including Bob Bear and Gene Vinson (co-leaders), Parker Severson, Evelyn and Gay Morrow, Horace Hobbs, John Norman, Lavonne Carlson, June Kerr, Ralph Moon, Tom and Gene Kendall, Judith, Jocelyn, James and John Delmonte, Gary Bratt, Kathryn Brucker, Lee Owings, Virginia Robertson, Dorothy Cruickshank, Adrienne Thirkel, Barbara Lilley, Jerry Galawas, Bryce Miller, Carl Jessel, and John Newberger. At daybreak next day Bob successfully led a party of about 12 to Temple Craig peak - about seven hours were required for the total trip. In the company of the neighboring Palisades, Temple Craig offered a superb view of this beautiful region and its many lakes. Those not making the climb wandered to the nearby higher lakes or went fishing. [ TOP ]
The Thumb - 30-Aug-52 - By: John Delmonte
Led by Lloyd Balsam and Parker Severson the Thumb (13,885') a prominent sharp-pointed pinnacle on the Sierra Crest between Middle Palisade and Birch Mt., was climbed on Labor Day Weekend, August 30th and 31st. Among those who made the trip were: Willard Dean, Bob Bear, Lloyd and Rosie Balsam, Niles and Louise Werner, Elgin Pierce, Georgie White, Marie Smith, Freda Walbrecht, Art Widmer, Jill Johnson, Carl Bartch, Lucy Grozescu and Parker Severson. As related by Parker Severson, the climb started on Sunday morning with perfect weather. Camp had been made at McMurray Meadow (9,500') on the evening before. A few snow patches were crossed on the way up. The group came across the wreckage of a bomber which had crashed into the North face of Birch Mt. during the last war. By noon the pinnacle of the Thumb was reached. The view from the Thumb proved awesome, with the lake-studded Palisade Basin below. [ TOP ]
Deer Mountain - 5-May-56 - By: Frank Sanborn
From the Angeles Chapter Schedule
MAY 5-6 (1956) - SAT.-SUN. - SIERRA PEAKS
Deer Mtn. (9,530'): Meet 7:00 a.m. Sat. Sam Lewis Pack Station, 7.6 miles north of Coso Junction, then left from Hwy. 6 for 1.5 miles. Knapsack to South Fork Kern R. via Haiwee Cr. and Pass. Sun. climb Deer Mtn. on short trailless route. Wood, water at camp, little elsewhere. Hiking: 7 miles Sat., 11 miles Sun. Driving: 400 miles. Leader: FRANK SANBORN; Asst.: JOHN ROBINSON.
From the July 1956 issue of Southern Sierran
SIERRA PEAKS SECTION - DEER MTN.
--Frank Sanborn
The following ten persons turned out for the first Sierra Peaks Section scheduled trip: Marge Gall, Bud Bingham, Roger Gaefcke, Virgil Lewis, Roger McIntyre, Esten Atwood, Vic Metcalfe, Marv Pistang, Frank Sanborn (leader), and John Robinson (asst.). Starting from Sam Lewis' pack station on Haiwee Creek at 7:00 am Sat., May 5, (1956) we followed a fine trail up over the Sierra Crest at Haiwee Pass at 8,500 ft., gaining 5,000 ft. in five miles. Dropping 1,500 ft. in two more miles, we reached the South Fork of the Kern River at 1:00 pm. It was a raging torrent, impossible to ford, so we made camp on its east bank and spent a very leisurely afternoon sunbathing and fishing. Bud and Vic, the fishermen, had no luck, however.
Sunday morning, Bud, Roger Gaefcke, John, Virgil and I set out looking for a way to cross the river. The others stayed in camp. We five finally crossed on a partially wet, vibrating, narrow log; a slip would have meant a plunge into a thundering rapids below…….not recommended for weak knees or hearts! It was a short climb from there to the tree-covered 9,530 ft. summit of Deer Mtn., overshadowed by the southernmost SPS Emblem Peak, Olancha. Finding no cairn or register, we left our names in a glass jar. Re-crossing the river on that log (whew!), we ate lunch at camp, then got back to the cars at 4:30 as darkening skies and a cold wind heralded the advance of a late season snowstorm across the Sierra.
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Note: History-minded readers need to remember that the SPS gained final approval for its founding from the Angeles Chapter Executive Committee in October 1955, and The Sierra Echo didn't begin its life until February 1957. Consequently, much of the early SPS trip information appeared in the Angeles Chapter Schedule or Southern Sierran. [ TOP ]
Maggie Mountain - 26-May-56 - By: Frank Sanborn
From the Angeles Chapter Schedule
MAY 26-27 (1956) - SAT.-SUN. - SIERRA PEAKS
Maggie Mtn. (10,000'): See fine alpine mtn. area; get a qualifying peak. Meet 7:00 a.m. Sat. Shake Public Camp, 2 miles North of Balch Park. Drive hwy. 190, Porterville to Springville, then North to Balch Park area. Camp Sat. night, Maggie Lakes, hike via Tule R. and Summit L. Sun., climb Maggie, return to cars. Wood, water plentiful. Semi-rugged. Hiking: 10 miles Sat., 11 miles Sun. All knapsack. Driving: 450 miles. Leader: FRANK SANBORN. Ass't.: MILES BRUBACHER.
From the June 1956 issue of Southern Sierran
SIERRA PEAKS SECTION - MT. MAGGIE
--Frank Sanborn
On May 26, 21 persons showed up for the hike to Mt. Maggie. Frank Sanborn leading and Miles Brubacher assisting, the group started out from Shake Public Camp, near Balch Park, on a good trail. They crossed the Tule River's Middle Fork on a redwood log, no bridges. Leaving the "big trees", they lost the trail under deep snowbanks and had to climb a steep ridge to get to frozen, snow-bound Summit Lake (9,400 ft.). Eating lunch on a spot of open ground, most of the group decided to stop; knapsacking over deep snow was very strenuous. They camped below the lake, and hiked out Sunday.
Nine men chose to go on into the remote Maggie Basin. Several climbed 10,050 ft. Sheep Mt. Bill and Marge Henderson went as far as Sheep Mt., taking moving pictures of the area. The nine others camped beside Peck's Creek, surrounded by deep snowbanks but sheltered by the dense forest. On Sunday, they ascended steep, glazed snow slopes to the 10,000 ft. summit of Maggie, a Sierra Peaks Section qualifying peak. Bob Bear, Bob Lovett, Alan Smith, John Robinson, Jim McGoldrick, Vic Metcalfe and Andy Smatko reached the top. Frank Sanborn and Dave Golay, lacking lug soles, stopped 400 ft. below. Vic Metcalfe slipped 200 ft. on the descent, but was not injured.
Dense clouds forced us to use a compass to grope our way down Maggie's south ridge to a trail, which we followed 4,000 ft. (in 5 miles) down to the Tule. They crossed on a log; Frank chose to ford the river. After the crossing, they climbed 1,200 ft. to the cars, completing a rugged, 22 mile loop for the weekend.
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Note: History-minded readers need to remember that the SPS gained final approval for its founding from the Angeles Chapter Executive Committee in October 1955, and The Sierra Echo didn't begin its life until February 1957. Consequently, much of the early SPS information appeared in Angeles Chapter Schedule, Southern Sierran or Sierra Club Bulletin. [ TOP ]
Mount Gilbert - 2-Jun-56 - By: George Wallerstein
From the Angeles Chapter Schedule
JUNE 2-3 (1956) - SAT-SUN. - SIERRA PEAKS
Mt. Gilbert (13,232'): Exploratory trip. Meet at the end of the road at South Lake at 10:00 a.am. Knapsack to lower Treasure Lake Sat. and climb the peak Sun. after crossing the crest east of the peak. Gain in altitude, 1,000' Sat., 2,500' Sun. Driving: 560 miles. The high altitude of this roadhead makes up for the long drive. In case of very heavy winter snows, this will be a ski tour. Call one of the leaders before going on the trip. Leader: GEORGE WALLERSTEIN. Asst.: STEVE WILKIE, Trans.: GEORGE WALLERSTEIN,
From his diary entries as retrieved by George Wallerstein in April 2005
(Having scouted the route on May 29, 1956, I found much snow even at moderate altitudes, so I changed the trip to a ski tour.)
Friday, June 1, 1956—Met Barabara Lilley, Jack Lasner, Bud Bingham, Tom Ross and Steve Wilkie at La Cañada and drove to Bishop. Camped at midnight.
Saturday, June 2, 1956—Drove to South Lake and carried skies & packs via Lower Treasure Lake to a camp at 11,400 ft. Snow flurries in the evening.
Sunday, June 3, 1956—The weather cleared during the night, and we started at 5:15 a.m. for Mt. Gilbert. Carried skis to the base of a couloir and used crampons up the couloir to the crest. From there, it was a walk to the top of Mt. Gilbert (13,103 ft.). A good view of the Black Divide, Mt. Goddard and the Palisades. Returned to the skis and had an excellent run back to camp and fair run down to South Lake. It was a very successful outing.
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Note: History-minded readers need to remember that the SPS gained final approval for its founding from the Angeles Chapter Executive Committee in October 1955. Officially scheduled trips began in 1956, and The Sierra Echo wasn't published until February 1957. Consequently, much of the early SPS trip information appeared in the Angeles Chapter Schedule or Southern Sierran. Other records exist only in the diaries of the respective leaders. [ TOP ]
Trail Peak - 9-Jun-56 - By: Patricia Meixner
From the Angeles Chapter Schedule
JUNE 9-10 (1956) - SAT.-SUN. - SIERRA PEAKS
Trail Peak (11,622'): An easy knapsack hike into heavily forested Cottonwood Basin. Meet in center of Lone Pine, near Mt. Whitney Café, at 6:00 a.m. Sat. Caravan to Carrol Creek roadhead from which hike starts at 7:00 a.m. An 8-mile knapsack takes us 1500 ft. over Wonoga Ridge, across Cottonwood Creek to our 10,000 ft. campsite at Horseshoe Meadow. Sun. we take an easy 6-mile round-trip hike to Trail Peak, then knapsack back to cars. Driving: 450 miles. Leader: FRANK SANBORN. Asst.: TED MAIER.
From the SPS column in the July 1956 issue of Southern Sierran
SPS NEWS
--Patricia Meixner
TRAIL PEAK-June 9-10: Frank Sanborn, Leader; Ted Maier, Asst. Leader.
On Sat., June 9, (1956) from the end of the Carroll Creek road out of Lone Pine, 19 persons knapsacked 9 miles to camp at Horseshoe Meadow in the Cottonwood Basin. The trial was good and the weather beautiful. The afternoon was spent loafing, swimming and sunbathing.
Sun. morning 17 people made the easy walking ascent of 11,622 ft. Trail Peak, from which they had a magnificent view of the Kern Canyon area, Whitney and Kaweah peaks, Cottonwood Basin, Olancha Peak area and the Great Western Divide. There was some snow glissading on the way back down to camp. Before hiking out there was another long session of sunbathing. [ TOP ]
Matterhorn Peak - 23-Jun-56 - By: Patricia Meixner
From the Angeles Chapter Schedule
JUNE 23-24 (1956) - SAT.-SUN. - SIERRA PEAKS
Matterhorn Peak (12,281'): An emblem peak. Leave upper Twin Lakes campground 8:00 a.m. Sat. Pack 5 miles to camp with wood and water. Climb peak Sunday over steep snow. Must have lug shoes. Ice axe advisable. Driving: 800 miles. Contract leaders. Leader: DON CLARKE. Asst.: BUD BINGHAM.
From the SPS column in the July 1956 issue of Southern Sierran
SPS NEWS
Patricia Meixner
MATTERHORN PEAK-June 23-24: Don Clarke, Leader; Bud Bingham, Asst. Leader
On Sat. June 23 (1956) from the upper Twin Lakes out of Bridgeport 27 people backpacked 5 miles by trail and cross-country to camp on an open knoll surrounded by snow below the Matterhorn. Five more joined them later. In the afternoon 3 rock climbers did the northeast buttress of the Dragtooth. Three others started and two completed the Doodad. Twelve Sierra Peakers climbed the Falsestooth. The rest of the group loafed in camp.
On Sun. morning at 6 am 22 left camp for the Matterhorn climb. After about 1,500 ft. of steep snow and 300 ft. of 2nd class rock climbing, the whole group reached the top of the 12,281 ft. peak at 10 am. The view of snow-covered peaks was spectacular. A quick glissading descent was made. All were back in camp before noon. The group then split up as people hiked out at various times. [ TOP ]
Alta Peak - 30-Jun-56 - By: Patricia Meixner
From the Angeles Chapter Schedule (1956)
JUNE 30-JULY 1 - SAT.-SUN. - SIERRRA PEAKS
Alta Peak (11,211'): An excellent view of the Great Western Divide an a wonderful area for wild flowers. Caravan to trailhead. Then knapsack 7 miles to camp at Alta Meadow. Sun. carry packs to point where the 2-mile Alta Peak Trail takes off. Climb peak and return to cars. Hiking Sun. 11 miles. Good for beginners. Driving: 450 miles. Leader: CHUCK MILLER. Asst.: PAT MEIXNER
From the SPS column in the July 1956 issue of Southern Sierran
SPS NEWS
ALTA PEAK-June 30-July 1: Chuck Miller, Leader; Frank Bressel, Asst. Leader.
On Sat. June 30, (1956) 37 people left Wolverton Meadow in Sequoia Nat'l Park for a leisurely 7 mile hike through beautifully forested areas, meadows and by streams to camp at Alta Meadow. The view of the snow capped Great Western Divide was glorious. The afternoon was spent either sunbathing or taking short hikes in the area. That evening all enjoyed the singing around the campfire.
Sun. morning after a leisurely start at 9 am, most of the group was on top of Alta Peak (11,211 ft.) by 11:00 am. The last three quarters of a mile was crossed on snow. It was a beautifully clear day and peaks from Ritter and Banner in the north to Florence Peak in the south were visible. Everyone was back at the cars by 3 pm.
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Note: Although the SPS formally was founded in October 1955, officially scheduled trips did not start until 1956. The Sierra Echo had not yet been born, so SPS trip reports normally appeared in Southern Sierran. Of particular interest in the Alta Peak report is the large size of the party, which was fully legal in the early days.
[ TOP ]
Mount Whitney - 7-Jul-56 - By: Patricia Meixner
From the Angeles Chapter Schedule
JULY 7-8 (1956) - SAT.-SUN. - SIERRA PEAKS
Mt. Whitney (14,495') by Mountaineer's Route: Those who have rubber-soled hiking boots, who are not afraid of heights, and who have done some previous climbing this summer, will have a spectacular ascent of our highest mountain. Meet at Whitney Portal at 7 a.m. Sat. A 3-4 hour trailless backpack to camp at Clyde Meadow. Wood and water available. Sun. make the trailless ascent and return. No rope work. Driving: 500 miles. Leader: MILES BRUBACHER. Asst.: PAT MEIXNER.
From the SPS column in the July 1956 issue of Southern Sierran
SPS NEWS
--Patricia Meixner
MT. WHITNEY-JULY 7-8: Miles Brubacher, Leader; Patricia Meixner, Asst. Leader
On Sat. July 7 (1956), 22 people knapsacked 3 miles cross-country up the North Fork of Lone Pine Creek to camp above Clyde Meadow. Six more joined the group later. In the afternoon 4 people climbed Thor Peak and 4 others climbed Mt. Russell. The rest loafed in camp.
Sun. morning 27 people made the ascent of Whitney via the Mountaineer's Route from East Face Lake. There was lots of snow in the couloir. All were on top by noon. Everyone enjoyed the glissading on the descent. The group hiked out as soon as they reached camp. [ TOP ]
Goat Mountain - 14-Jul-56 - By: Patricia Meixner
From the Angeles Chapter Schedule
JULY 14-15 (1956) - SAT.-SUN. - SIERRA PEAKS
Goat Mt. (12,203'): Dominating the Granite Basin area, Goat Mt. also looks down 6000' into the Paradise Valley of Kings Canyon. Meet 6:30 a.m. Sat. at roadhead east of Cedar Grove in Kings Canyon. Knapsack 9 miles (5000' gain) up Copper Creek trail and through Tent Meadow (cross-country last 2 miles) to timberline camp at Grouse Lake (10,500'). Sun. rock-scramble 2 miles to peak, then return to canyon floor. Semi-rugged. Driving: 600 miles. Leader: FRANK SANBORN. Asst.: FRANK BRESSEL.
From the September 1956 issue of Southern Sierran
SPS NEWS
--Patricia Meixner
GOAT MT. (July 28-29) Leader: Chuck Miller.
On Sat. at 8 am 11 people began the steep 5,000 ft. climb to lovely Grouse Lake. Four people who left at 9:30 am caught up with the group a few hours later. The day was cooled by big rain clouds, but only a few drops showered on us. All were in camp by 5 pm.
Sun. morning the short climb of Goat Mt. (12,203 ft.) was made via a mostly 2nd with some 3rd class route. The view from the top was spectacular for everything from the Kaweahs and Whitney to Mt. Goddard and peaks north was visible. In the cairn we found the original paper naming the mountain placed by Joseph Le Conte and also a register placed by Walter Starr. Since 1899 only about 35 people have climbed the peak.
Lunch was eaten back at camp and the first group reached the cars around 4:15 pm. [ TOP ]
Mount Ritter - 14-Jul-56 - By: Patricia Meixner
From the Angeles Chapter Schedule
JULY 14-15 (1956) - SAT.-SUN. - SIERRA PEAKS
Mt. Ritter (13,157'): Meet at end of road at Agnew Meadows Campground 10:00 a.m. Sat. Hike 6 miles to camp at upper end of Lake Ediza. Climb mountain Sun. via "Glacier" and return to cars (strenuous day). Bring ice axe if desired, but not necessary. Third class. Driving: 500 miles. Leader: MILES BRUBACHER. Asst.: PAT MEIXNER.
From the SPS column in the July 1956 issue of Southern Sierran
SPS NEWS
--Patricia Meixner
MT. RITTER-July 14-15: Izzy Lieberman, Leader; Miles Brubacher, Asst. Lerader
On Sat. July 14, 31 people backpacked 6 miles from Aagnew Meadow to camp at Lake Ediza below the Minarets and Ritter and Banner. Two hiked on 1,500 ft. higher so they could climb Banner as wewll as Ritter on Sunday. In the afternoon a few people hiked up to Lower Iceberg Lake. The rest loafed in camp.
Sorry, balance of report not available [ TOP ]
University Peak - 11-Aug-56 - By: Patricia Meixner
From the Angeles Chapter Schedule
AUG. 11-12 (1956) - SAT.-SUN. - SIERRA PEAKS
University Peak (13,586'): This peak occupies a prominent place on the Sierra Crest between the Whitney group and the Palisades and commands a fine view of the Kings-Kern Divide. Meet at 7 a.m. Sat. at end of road in Onion Valley (9000'), 16 miles west of Independence. Knapsack 7 miles over Kearsarge Pass (11,823') to camp at upper Kearsarge Lake. Sun., 6 mile roundtrip climb of University Peak via a rough route involving Class 2 and 3 rock scrambling and scree climbing. Then knapsack 7 miles back to cars. Rugged! Driving: 450 miles. Leader: FRANK SANBORN. Asst.: CHUCK MILLER.
From the September 1956 issue of Southern Sierran
SPS NEWS
--Patricia Meixner
UNIVERSITY PEAK?? Aug 11-12 (1956) Leader: Chuck Miller
On Sat. 16 people left Onion Valley at 8 am for the 5-mile hike into the Kearsarge Lakes. The afternoon was spent swimming and loafing, and a few people did some climbing on a ridge behind camp. A decision was also reached that afternoon. We decided that instead of making the cruddy class 1 climb of University (Peak), we would wait until some other time to climb it by the 3rd class route and instead would climb Mt. Gould and Dragon Pk.
So Sun. morning at 7 am we hiked to Kearsarge Pass and left our packs to first climb Mt. Gould. It was a beautiful day and the view was grand. However, while on Mt. Gould half the group decided that they preferred a leisurely weekend and only 7 went on to climb Dragon Pk. The last were down at the cars at 5:30 pm.
[ TOP ]
Mount Gould, Dragon Peak - 11-Aug-56 - By: Patricia Meixner
From the Angeles Chapter Schedule
AUG. 11-12 (1956) - SAT.-SUN. = SIERRA PEAKS
University Peak (13,586'): This peak occupies a prominent place on the Sierra Crest between the Whitney group and the Palisades and commands a fine view of the Kings-Kern Divide. Meet at 7 a.m. Sat. at end of road in Onion Valley (9000'), 16 miles west of Independence. Knapsack 7 miles over Kearsarge Pass (11,823') to camp at upper Kearsarge Lake. Sun., 6 mile roundtrip climb of University Peak via a rough route involving Class 2 and 3 rock scrambling and scree climbing. Then knapsack 7 miles back to cars. Rugged! Driving: 450 miles. Leader: FRANK SANBORN. Asst.: CHUCK MILLER.
From the September 1956 issue of Southern Sierran
SPS NEWS
--Patricia Meixner
UNIVERSITY PEAK?? Aug 11-12 (1956) Leader: Chuck Miller
On Sat. 16 people left Onion Valley at 8 am for the 5-mile hike into the Kearsarge Lakes. The afternoon was spent swimming and loafing, and a few people did some climbing on a ridge behind camp. A decision was also reached that afternoon. We decided that instead of making the cruddy class 1 climb of University (Peak), we would wait until some other time to climb it by the 3rd class route and instead would climb Mt. Gould and Dragon Pk.
So Sun. morning at 7 am we hiked to Kearsarge Pass and left our packs to first climb Mt. Gould. It was a beautiful day and the view was grand. However, while on Mt. Gould half the group decided that they preferred a leisurely weekend and only 7 went on to climb Dragon Pk. The last were down at the cars at 5:30 pm.
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Note: As can be seen by the confusing title, part of this trip did not go as scheduled. [ TOP ]
Mount Lamarck, Mount Darwin - 18-Aug-56 - By: Patricia Meixner
From Angeles Chapter Schedule
Aug 18-19 (1956) - SAT-SUN - SIERRA PEAKS
Mt. Lamarck (13,450'), Mt. Darwin (13,841'): Meet Sat. 8:00 at campground above North Lake. Knapsack 6 miles (9 hours) on Sat. Sun. knapsack 6 miles with packs, 6 miles without (16 hours). Gain: 4,250' Sat., 3,250' Sun. Bring lug sole shoes, primus-strove, canteen, flashlight, extra batteries, food for five meals. Driving: 580 miles. Leader: BOB SHELLER. Asst.: LEO SCOTTI.
From the September 1956 issue of Southern Sierran
SPS NEWS
--Patricia Meixner
MT. LAMARCK, MT. DARWIN Aug 18-19 (1956) Leader: Bob Sheller
On Sat. at 8 a.m. 13 people started the steep climb from North Lake to Lamarck Col. Before long two people dropped out. Around 1 pm the 11 others stopped for lunch below the col. After a short siesta we climbed Mt. Lamarck. When we returned 3 people left the group for they had car trouble on the way up and had to hike out early Sun. morning. Although we camped at 13,000 ft. that night it was surprisingly mild.
Sun. at 6 am only 7 people began the climb of Mt. Darwin as one of the group was sick. We climbed over Larmarck Col, dropped 1,200 ft. down into Darwin Canyon and then began to climb first over snow and then rock. The route was enjoyable, and by 10:30 am all were on top of the peak (13,841 ft.). We spent two hours on top as 5 of us climbed the summit block. We were back at our packs by 3:45 pm and started for the cars an hour later. Within a couple of hours we were down. [ TOP ]
Mount Irvine - 25-Aug-56 - By: Jerry Keating
From the Angeles Chapter Schedule
AUG. 25-26 (1956) - SAT.-SUN. - SIERRA PEAKS
Mt. Irvine (13,790'): Knapsack up south fork of Lone Pine Creek 6.5 miles to camp at lower Meysan Lake (10,200'). Sun., climb Mt. Irvine via steep trailless route to its majestic summit on the Sierra Crest. Hiking Sun. 6 miles without packs, 6.5 miles with. Meet at water fountain at U.S. 395 and Whitney Portal Road in Lone Pine, 7 a.m. Sat. Caravan to trailhead. Driving: 460 miles. Leader: FRANK BRESSEL. Asst.: PAT MEIXNER.
Sorry, trip report not available.
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Note: History-minded readers need to remember that the SPS gained final approval for its founding from the Angeles Chapter Executive Committee in October 1955. Officially scheduled trips began in 1956, and The Sierra Echo wasn't published until February 1957. Consequently, much of the early SPS trip information appeared in the Angeles Chapter Schedule or Southern Sierran. [ TOP ]
Mount Williamson, Mount Bernard, Trojan Peak- 1-Sep-56 - By: Patricia Meixner
Fron the Angeles Chapter Schedule
Sept 1-2-3 (1956) - SUN-MON - SIERRA PEAKS
Mt. Williamson (14,384'), Mt. Barnard (14,003'), Tojan Peak (13,968'): These three giants of the Sierra Crest will provide an abundance of interesting climbing. Meet in center of Independence (at Inyo County Sheriff's Station) at 6 a.m. Sat. Caravan up a network of rough obscure unmarked roads to the mouth of George Creek Canyon. Knapsack rugged, trailless 8 miles to 11,000' campsite at timberline. Sun., 8 mile roundtrip climb of Williamson (Class 2 and 3, rough scrambling). Mon., easy Class 2 climbs of Barnard and Trojan from camp, then return to cars. Driving: 450 miles. Leader: FRANK SANBORN. Asst.: JOHN ROBINSON.
From the October 1956 issue of Southern Sierran
SIERRA PEAKS SECTION
--Patricia Meixner
MT. WILLIAMSON, MT. BARNARD, TROJAN PEAK Sept 1-2-3 (1956) Leader: Graham Stephenson
On Sat. morning at 9 am 22 people made the steep 5,000 ft. climb straight up George Creek Canyon. The occasionally marked route involved plowing thru heavy brush, climbing over and under trees, scrambling over rocks, climbing steep slopes and crossing and re-crossing George Creek time and time again. By 6 pm 15 people had made camp at a lovely spot at 11,000 ft. The 7 other people camped about 900 ft. below us, too tired to make the final climb.
On Sun. 20 people made the climb of Mt. Williamson (14,384 ft.). The last group was on top by 1 pm. The route, although long, was easy. The view of rugged peaks and sparkling lakes was fabulous. On the way down we met Bob Sheller and Frank Sanborn, who had hiked up from the cars that morning and were making the climb all in one day. They returned around 7 pm to camp.
Mon. morning at 6:15 am only 7 people (Pat Meixner, Graham Stephenson, Tom Ross, Andy Smatko, Andy Wade, Jerry Whittemore & Bob Schmelzer) started out to climb Mt. Barnard and Trojan Peak. We carried our packs across the canyon to where we began the climb. By 10:30 am the last person was on top of Mt. Barnard (14,003 ft.). On the way up a beautiful buck and two mountain goats were seen. After photographing the beautiful view all but Bob Schmelzer went on to climb Trojan Peak (13,968 ft.) via the long ridge which dropped and then went up again. We were all on top by 1 pm. Lake Helen of Troy sparkled below us. A quick scree run brought us to our packs around 2:30 pm. After a rough fast hike we were down to the road at 6:30 pm. [ TOP ]
Cardinal Mountain - 15-Sep-56 - By: Bud Bingham
From the Angeles Chapter Schedule
SEPT. 15-16 - SAT.-SUN. - SIERRA PEAKS
Cardinal Mtn. (13,397'): Here is an opportunity see fine views of the upper reaches of the South Fork of the Kings River and Bench Lake area. For conditioned and experienced knapsackers. Rugged! Meet 7:00 a.m. at Taboose Cr. and U.S. 395. Cars caravan to end of road on Taboose Cr. Knapsack to timberline camp on steep rocky trail. Bring canteens. Sun., climb to Taboose Pass and take trailless route to peak. Gain: 5,300' Sat., 2,900' Sun. Hiking Sat. 6 miles without pack; Sun. 6 miles without and 6 miles with. Driving: 560 miles. Leader: BUD BINGHAM. Asst.: DON CLARKE.
From the October 1956 issue of Southern Sierran
SIERRA PEAKS SECTION - CARDINAL MTN.
--Bud Bingham
At 8:00 a.m. Sept. 15, (1956) five die-hards met the challenge of climbing to Taboose Pass from the Owens Valley floor and on to Cardinal Mtn. The group comprised of Barbara Lilley, Bob Bear, George Wallerstein, Don Clarke and Bud Bingham. With ambitious spirits upon reaching the pass, packs were left behind and the summit was reached by 5:00 p.m. the same day. Darkness found the group at a timberline campsite one mile west of the pass. Sunday, a hike to Bench Lake provided camera shots of the lake and Arrow Peak. Three in the party took a cold swim. The hike back to the cars was completed by 5:00 p.m. [ TOP ]
Mount Silliman - 15-Sep-56 - By: Frank Bressel
From the Angeles Chapter Schedule
SEPT. 15-16 (1956) - SAT.-SUN. - SIERRA PEAKS
Mt. Silliman (12,268): This picturesque summit offers scenic views of the Great Western Divide, the Kaweah Peaks and the Sierra Crest. Meet at Lodgepole Campground near Giant Forest in Sequoia National Park at 7:00 a.m. Sat. Backpack approximately 6¾ miles to camp at Twin Lakes (9,375'); water and wood plentiful. Early Sun. climb Silliman via trailless route and return to Lodgepole. Driving: 460 miles. Leader: FRANK BRESSEL. Asst.: PAT MEIXNER. [ TOP ]
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Sorry, trip report not available.
Mount Morrison - 22-Sep-56 - By: Miles Brubacher
From the Angeles Chapter Schedule
SEPT. 22-23 (1956) - SAT.-SUN. - SIERRA PEAKS
Mt. Morrison (12,268'): This is a good one to brag about to your friends, very spectacular from the highway. Meet Sat. noon at the airstrip on Highway 395 near Convict Lake turnoff. Bring swimming suit for dip in Hot Creek. Camp at cars at Convict Lake. Sun. climb the northwest ridge of the mountain and return. No rope work. Driving: 600 miles. Leader: MILES BRUBACHER. Asst.: IZZY LIEBERMAN.
From the October 1956 issue of Southern Sierran
SIERRA PEAKS SECTION - MOUNT MORRISON
--Miles Brubacher
Two carloads of Sierra Peakers spent a pleasant afternoon Saturday, September 22, (1956) in the Hot Creek near Mammoth. Most of the bathers moved about the pool trying to minimize the hot and cold "flashes." Bob Boyd enjoyed porpoising into the current for a quick ride downstream, while Dick Jali tried to find the bottom of the pool but found only hot steam jets! Saturday night, three more carloads arrived at Convict Lake, bringing the roster to 15 climbers.
The group left the roadhead at 7:30 a.m. Sunday and climbed a black rock chute to the northwest ridge. This ridge became a spectacular knife-edge at higher elevations and careful climbing using the hands was necessary. The summit was attained at about 12:30 p.m., and the terrific view was enjoyed by all. An easy descent was made, consisting of screeing down the southeast chute to the East Col and thence glissading a smooth snowfield under the northeast face. After an interesting day, the climbers headed for Bishop and steaks. [ TOP ]
Tunnabora Peak - 29-Sep-56 - By: Frank Sanborn
From the Angeles Chapter Schedule
SEPT. 29-30 (1956) - SAT.-SUN. - SIERRA PEAKS
Tunnabora Peak (13,593'): Meet at Whitney Portal 9:00 a.m. Sat. Knapsack up North Fork of Lone Pine Creek and camp at timberline. Sun., climb peak via Russell-Carillon Col. Gain: 3,000' Sat., 3,500' Sun. Driving: 420 miles. Leader: GEORGE WALLERSTEIN. Asst.: BUD BINGHAM.
From the October 1956 issue of Southern Sierran
SIERRA PEAKS SECTION - MT. TUNNABORA
--Frank Sanborn
Led by George Wallerstein and assisted by Bud Bingham, 23 Sierra Peakers and guests clambered up the rocks, over the Ebersbacher Ledges and through Clyde Meadow to their 11,000 ft. campsite at timberline in the upper North Fork of Lone Pine Creek on Sat., Sept. 29 (1956). Cloudy skies threatened trouble, but the weather cleared by nightfall.
Early Sun., Sept. 30, we climbed 2,000 ft. of very steep scree to the Russell-Carillon Col, dropped 600 ft. down steep rock ledges to 12,800 ft. Lake Tulainyo, the highest in North America. Skirting the snowfield on its western shore, we climbed sand-and-rock slopes to the 13,593 ft. summit of Tunnabora Peak. A crystal-clear day gave us a fine view. AFtr that, we split up into groups, climbing 14,190 ft. Mt. Russell, 13,571 ft. Mt. Carillon, 12,301 ft. Thor Peak and the Cleaver (a formidable rock east of Lake Tulainyo).
P.S: It seems that all of our Emblem Peaks have been climbed this summer. In addition to the 5 scheduled ones (Mt. Whitney, Mt. Ritter, Matterhorn Pk., Mt. Darwin and Mt. Williamson) in their spare time??? Barbara Lilley and John Robinson climbed Mt. Goddard; Pat Meixner, Bob Sheller, Don Clarke and Bud Bingham climbed Mt. Abbot; John Robinson and a friend climbed Olancha Pk.; Miles Brubacher, Izzy Lieberman and Lyle Gaston climbed Mt. Sill; :Pat Meixner, Tom Ross, Graham Stephenson and John Robinson climbed Mt. Lyell; Bud Bingham and Don Clarke climbed Mt. Brewer; and Andy Smatko, Doug Engle and Bill Erwin climbed Mt. Kaweah. [ TOP ]
Mount Rixford - 6-Oct-56 - By: John W. Robinson
From the Angeles Chapter Schedule
OCT. 6-7 (1956) - SAT.-SUN. - SIERRA PEAKS
Mt. Rixford (12,856'): An easy knapsack trip into a beautiful mountain area of Kings Canyon Nat. Park. Meet 7 a.m. Saturday at end of road in Onion Valley (9,000'), 16 mi. wet of Independence. Knapsack 7 mi. over Kearsarge Pass to camp at Upper Kearsarge Lake. Sun., climb Mt. Rixford in easy class 2 ascent, then back to cars. Hiking 11 mi. Sun, 8 of them downhill. Driving: 450 mi. Leader: JOHN ROBINSON. Asst.: FRANK SANBORN.
From the November 1956 issue of Southern Sierran
SIERRA PEAKS SECTION - MT. RIXFORFD, OCT. 6-7 (1956)
--John Robinson
Eight somewhat dubious SPS knapsackers started out from Onion Valley Saturday morning in spite of tghreatening skies. Upon reaching Kearsarge Pass we found ourselves amid strong winds and black clouds with rain beginning to fall. Realizing that a real storm was approaching, we beat a hasty retreat back to our cars and got down into the Owens Valley just ahead of heavy snows. Five of us decided we'd had enough and went home. The three others, thoroughly chilled to the bone, headed for Death Valley and joined the Desert Peakers on warm Sentinel Peak.
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Note: History-minded SPSers need to remember that the SPS gained final approval for its founding from the Angeles Chapter Executive Committee in October 1955. Officially scheduled trips began in 1956, and The Sierra Echo wasn't published until February 1957. Consequently, much of the early SPS trip information appeared in the Angeles Chapter Schedule or Southern Sierran. [ TOP ]
Mount Inyo - 20-Oct-56 - By: John W. Robinson
From the Angeles Chapter Schedule
OCT. 20-21 (1956) - SAT-SUN. - DESERT PEAKS-SIERRA PKS. JOINT TRIP
Peak 11,107' (Inyo Range), Exploratory Trip: This will be the club's first visit to this unnamed but worthy desert peak 2 miles north of Keynot. Upon reaching this summit we'll decide on a name for it. Meet in the center of Lone Pine at drinking fountain 7 a.m. Sat. we'll caravan several miles over rough dirt roads to start climb and backpack 2,500'. Sun. climb peak and return to cars. Probably no water so bring at least 3 canteens and stout shoes. Not recommended for beginners. Driving: 430 miles. Hiking: 12 miles. Leader: JOHN ROBINSON. Asst. Leader: BUD BINGHAM. Trans.: EMILY BEAR.
From the November 1956 issue of Southern Sierran
DESERT PEAKERS - MT. INYO (PK. 11,107'), OCT. 20-21 (1956)
--John Robinson
When the SPS and DPS decide to climb a new peak, they really do it in style. Three separate parties converged on unnamed Peak 11,107 in the Inyos from three different directions.
The first group, comprising of Andy Smatko and Pat Meixner, sneaked up the peak two weeks before the scheduled trip. They trudged up the ridge due west of the peak in the smart time of 7 hours - all in one day! Upon reaching the summit they decided to name the mt. in honor of … themselves: Mt. Patko.
Saturday morning two weeks later our main party, 10 strong, set out from the end of a barely passable "road" 3 miles northeast of Owenyo, unaware that our peak had been violated and named. The trip to the summit was long and steep. Most of the time we were playing hide-and-seek with a half-century-old trail that supposedly crosses the range just south of our peak. A spring and a 1000 ft. loose scree slope made the trip refreshing and dissipating respectively. Five out of our original 10 made the summit Sunday morning and named it Mt. Inyo in honor of the range it lies in.
Still another group of four started a death march from Bad Water Springs (El. 1400 ft.) in Saline Valley early Saturday morning. All day long and part of the night they trudged up an endless, waterless, trailless, and everything else-less ridge in order to reach the summit tired but satisfied (?) Sunday morning. Three of the four made it: Bud Bingham, Don Clarke, and Barbara Lilley. In view of their exhausting climb and the proximity of Keynot Pk., they suggested Do Not Pk. for an appropriate name. Their route down was into Owens Valley, thereby making a complete traverse of the range.
Mt. Inyo, Patko, or Do Not, whatever you call it, is certainly worthy of future DPS climbs. The new topo map shows it the highest in the range outside of Waucoba. From any direction, however, it's a real haul.
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Note: History-minded readers need to remember that the SPS gained final approval for its founding from the Angeles Chapter Executive Committee in October 1955. The Sierra Echo wasn't published until February 1957, and the DPS Newsletter carried relatively few comprehensive trip reports. Consequently, much of the early SPS information appeared in the Angeles Chapter Schedule, Southern Sierran or Sierra Club Bulletin.
[ TOP ]
Owens Peak - 11-Nov-56 - By: Miles Brubacher
From the Angeles Chapter Schedule
NOV. 11 (1956) - SUN. - SIERRA PEAKS
Owens Peak (8,475'): Get a qualifying peak on a Sun. hike. Meet at the Homestead restaurant on U.S. 6 just north of the Inyokern turnoff at 10 a.m. Drive up mining road and make short, trailless climb to the summit for a fine view of extreme southern Sierra and China Lake. Back at cars by 3 p.m. Terrific steaks available at the Homestead. Driving: 300 miles. Leader: MILES BRUBACHER. Asst. Leader: PAT MEIXNER.
From the December 1956 issue of Southern Sierran
SIERRA PEAKS SECTION - OWENS PEAK (8,475 ft.) Leader: Miles Brubacher, Asst. Leader: Pat Meixner
On Nov. 11 (1956) forty-six people met at the Homestead Café on Hwy. 395 for the climb of Owens Peak.
We caravanned in towards the peak on a dirt road and finally, in spite of stalled cars and wrong roads, we all gathered for the hike. It was a beautiful mild day. The climb is short, and people were practically strung out along the whole route. Of the 46 people who started out, 32 made the summit.
About the time the first group got to the top of the peak, we were buzzed by a low-flying plane which circled around for quite a while. I'm sure the pilot was Ray Van Aken from China Lake.
We had planned on getting down early to the cars, but because of the late start and the slowness of the group, the last few people reached their cars after dark. [ TOP ]
University Peak - 25-May-57 - By: Pat Meixner
From The Sierra Echo (Vol I, No. 3), June 1957
UNIVERSITY PEAK (13,588'): May 25-26, 1957 - Ldr: Bud Bingham; Ass't: Rich Gnagy
Pat Meixner
On Saturday morning about 22 people started the pleasant 4 mile climb from Onion Valley to Slim Lake. Eight others who climbed Independence Pk. just south of the valley joined us later. The snow level was down to 9,000 ft. and Slim Lake was completely frozen over. The early arrivers in camp found nice dry rock ledges to sleep on; the others camped on snow. The day was perfect - blue skies crossed by an occasional cloud, warm sun and hardly a breath of wind. Beautiful snow fields rose to meet the rugged ridges of University Peak.
In the afternoon a group of eager beavers decided to do some practice snow climbing. Soft snow provided good step-kicking conditions. We climbed till we reached the top of a ridge which gave us a view of the routes to the summit of University Pk. To the north and south the snow laden peaks shown in white splendor. Beautiful puffy clouds touched the horizon. It was then that Vergil Lewis, Alan Smith, Bob Weekly and I decided to go to the top that same day. The climbing was wonderful. We had gone quite a way when Vergil got sick. We were sorry to see him turn back. The rest of us went on. The snow along the ridge to the summit was soft and the exposure was hairy! And (at) 150 ft. from the top with only a 30 ft. gain in elevation we were stopped for lack of a rope. With no handholds on the smooth rock to our left & soft snow on steeply sloping rock to our right it was too dangerous to go on. If you slipped, there would be no chance for an ice axe arrest. So we retreated - but we would be back. We arrived at camp at dusk. Glissading was soft, wet and no fun at all.
On Sunday, 24 people made the climb of University Pk. Of the group from the Saturday attempt, only Alan Smith went up again. Vergil Lewis still didn't feel well. Bob Weekly had a case of snow blindness and I had a blistered face. The people found the climb easy, for we had kicked steps almost to the summit the day before. The weather again was perfect. Rock climbers Harvey Hickman, Bill Sanders and Don Clarke supervised the use of ropes and pitons at the point where we had turned back on Saturday. Everyone reached the summit. Although Al Smith suffered no ill effects on Saturday, he found the climb on Sunday costly when his camera tumbled into obscurity. Glissading on the way down improved as the descending climbers used the same slide routes. All were in camp in the early afternoon.
After lunch, the group began to lurch out to the cars on soft snow, occasionally sinking in up to the hips.
Everyone agrees it was a very successful trip. With the climbing of University Peak, we acquired 5 new members in the Sierra Peaks Section. Welcome to Peter Hunt, Alan Smith, Ralph Merten and his two sons, Kenneth and Philip.
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Note: This trip was part of the second year of officially scheduled SPS trips. University was scheduled for the first year, 1956, but the group-while camped at the Kearsarge Lakes-decided instead to climb Mt. Gould and Dragon Peak. That trip was reported in the September 1956 issue of Southern Sierran. [ TOP ]
Mount Agassiz - 3-Aug-57 - By: John W. Robinson
From the Sierra Peaks Column in Southern Sierran, September-October 1957
Mt. Agassiz (13,891') - --John W. Robinson
Twenty-five Sierra Clubbers and guests started out from South Lake Saturday morning, August 3, (1957) bent on climbing Mount Agassiz, northernmost of the Palisade summits. Reaching their lakeside camp four miles later, most of the party decided to relax and soak up the sun the rest of the day. Eight peak-baggers decided to add Mount Goode, towering majestically above them (so they thought), to their list. Two hours later they scrambled onto the summit only to find they'd missed their mark - it wasn't Mount Goode. The disgusted climbers promptly named it "Mount No Goode."
The warm sunshine and beautiful surroundings of Saturday afternoon apparently dulled the "climbing bug" in many of the knapsackers, for only eleven of them made up the assault party on Agassiz Sunday morning. The peak was ascended without difficulty and a rugged panorama of the Palisades et al was enjoyed. The descent and return to South Lake was accomplished by mid-afternoon. Another Sierra weekend "away from it all" had ended with pleasant memories.
Leader - Chuck Miller
From The Sierra Echo (Vol. I, No. 4), August 1957
MT. AGASSIZ (13,891'): Aug. 3-4 (1957) - Leader: Chuck Miller
Twenty-five people showed up for this relatively easy one from South L. Saturday they knapsacked up to a small lake near timberline below Bishop Pass. That afternoon some of them attempted Mt. Goode but climbed the wrong peak - which they promptly named Mt. No Goode. Many of the group wanted to relax on Sunday, so only 11 climbed Agassiz. An excellent panorama of the major Palisade peaks was enjoyed by those reaching the summit.
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Notes: This was the first time Agassiz was officially scheduled by the SPS. Graham Stephenson was listed in the Angeles Chapter Schedule as the assistant leader, but neither article indicates whether or not he was on the trip. The Echo article is unsigned, but John Robinson was editor at the time. [ TOP ]
Moses Mountain - 2-Nov-57 - By: Frank Sanborn
From The Sierra Echo (Vol. 1, No. 6), December 1957
SUMMIT LAKE (& MOSES), Nov. 2-3, 1957 - By Frank Sanborn
On Saturday, Nov 2d, thirty hikers gathered at Shake Public Camp, near Balch Park, in Sequoia National Forest, to participate in the Sierra Peaks Section hike to Summit Lake. The gloom was thick among the giant Sequoia trees and some sleet was falling as Frank Sanborn led the group up the trail at 8 a.m. Chuck Miller, the assistant leader, stayed with a rear guard of eight fellows who climbed Mt. Moses. The Merten and Austin families were with us, with their mountain-wise children. Dennis Austin, age 7, carried his own full-size knapsack. Most of the group had covered the seven miles to camp and were eating lunch around a roaring fire at Summit Lake by 2 p.m. It was bitterly cold there at 9600 ft. when a sudden blizzard struck, accompanied by thunder and lightning.
It was obvious that we had to get out at once before the trail was too deeply buried by the heavily falling snow. Therefore, after hurriedly repacking, Frank led the group back out to the cars. The trail was very difficult to follows and darkness didn't help any, but we all reached our cars by 8 p.m.
Bud Bingham and Graham Stephenson got out first, using chains, and notified the Sheriff's Office in Porterville that most of us were stuck. The Austin children were taken out to the ranger station at Springville. The rest of us who had chains attached them and tried to get out, but three cars skidded into a ditch, forcing their ten occupants to sleep in them Saturday night. Sunday morning three deputy sheriffs arrived in a four-wheel drive vehicle and towed the stranded cars out of two feet of snow. The sheriff's men then proceeded to Shake Camp and helped the remaining cars which were stuck because of dead batteries, lack of chains or deep snow.
No one was hurt in this incident, for which we all are thankful. We did come perilously close to being snowed in the back country, however, which highlights the fact that hiking into the Sierra in November is rather risky. It is my opinion that in the future, no knapsack trips should be scheduled into the Sierra later than October, regardless of favorable weather forecasts. We were all lucky this time.
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Note: This is one of the legendary early trips of the SPS, and it prompted the Section to be more cautious in scheduling fall backpacks into the high country. This trailhead was particularly troublesome because the road out gained elevation before descending to a lower level. The Moses climb does not appear in any Echo index because of a lack of route description. [ TOP ]
Muah Mountain - 16-Nov-57 - By: Jerry Keating
EARLY BACKGROUND ON MT. MUAH (1957)
Muah was first officially scheduled by the SPS in 1957 and then officially scheduled again in 1958. In another file, there is a trip report for 1958, when the peak was climbed, but be advised that the 1957 trip was canceled because of unsuitable snow conditions. That cancellation no doubt came in light of what had happened two weeks earlier. Here's how the 1957 trip was announced in the Angeles Chapter Schedule:
NOV 16-17 (1957) SAT.-SUNS. SIERRA PEAKS
MT. MUAH (11,012')-7:00 a.m. Meet in center of Lone Pine Sat. caravan to end of Carroll Creek Road. Knapsack 8 miles to Horshoe Meadow in Cottonwood Basin. Sun. we climb Mt. Muah by way of a trailless route over Mulkey Meadows (10,000 ft), then return to cars. Total hike Sun.: 18 miles, 10 miles of which is without packs. Not recommended for beginners. Driving 425 miles. Leader: FRANK SANBORN. Asst.: JOHN ROBINSON.
By way of further background, on Nov. 2-3, 1957, there was a scheduled SPS backpack from Balch Park to Summit Lake. That trip, led by Frank Sanborn and Chuck Miller, is viewed historically as a near debacle. Thirty-one persons, including some children, were on the trip, and most party members were snowed in Saturday night at or near the trailhead.
Observed Frank in his trip report: "No one was hurt in this incident, for which we all are thankful. We did come perilously close to being snowed in in the back country, however, which highlights the fact that hiking into the Sierra in November is rather risky. It is my opinion that in the future, no knapsack trips should be scheduled into the Sierra later than October, regardless of favorable weather forecasts. We were all lucky this time."
Frank's interest in Muah reappeared in the fall of 1964, when he and 15 others climbed the peak as a scheduled day hike. With Wonoga Peak having been climbed on Saturday from along what users now called the Horseshoe Meadow Road, the Sunday day hike started some 5,800' below Muah. Ron Jones was the assistant leader on the trip.
The year 1964 was a banner one for the SPS. There were 25 scheduled trips that year, and leading the large trip category was Rick Jali's Smith-Crag beginners' outing in April. It attracted 124 participants. [ TOP ]
Muah Mountain - 24-May-58 - By: Frank Sanborn
FROM THE SIERRA ECHO (Vol. 11, No. 3), June 1958
MT. MUAH (11,012'), May 24-25 (1958) By Frank Sanborn
Nine hardy men showed up for the fairly strenuous knapsack trip on Saturday, May 24th, at the Carroll Creek roadhead 14 miles southwest of Lone Pine. Frank Sanborn led this small but rugged group, with John Robinson keeping close watch as assistant leader. We moved at a brisk pace over good trails, gaining 2500 feet in 9 miles to our campsite on the edge of Horseshoe Meadow, at 9800 feet. Little Cottonwood and Cottonwood Creeks were swollen by melting snow above, but we crossed them with no difficulty.
Having the whole afternoon to kill, most of the group ascended snow-covered Trail Peak (11,622'), across the meadow from the tree-studded campsite. John Delmonte and Frank, being old married men, stayed in camp.
On Sunday we arose early, hiked across snow hard enough to support us over Mulkey Pass and across wild country (trailless) to the 11,012' summit of Mt. Muah, on the Sierra Crest north of Olancha Peak. An easy but lengthy class 2 walk-up, we found that we were the first to sign the register since Chester Versteeg back in 1937. After struggling through the softening snow five miles back to camp, we took a lunch break, then knapsacked back out, for a total hike of 19 miles on Sunday. Good steaks at Homestead helped restore us, from our hike to Mt. Moooooo-aaaaahh. [ TOP ]
Vandever Mountain, Sawtooth Peak (N) - 9-Aug-58 - By: Tom Ross
From The Sierra Echo (Vol. II, No. 4), August 1958
MT. VANDEVER (11,918'), SAWTOOTH PK. (12,340'), Aug. 9-10 (1958)
By Tom Ross
Since the scheduled leaders could not make this trip, Burl Parkinson and I led these climbs.
It seems that instead of loafing around camp the majority wanted to climb Vandever on Saturday, so Burl and I led the group up to Farewell Gap in time to see dark clouds forming. We reached the summit as large raindrops came down and hail fell as large as peas. Thunder was booming in the distance but the storm soon passed and it was sunny again.
Vandever made Lois Stolaroff, a newcomer, her first mountain she had ever climbed! George Shinno climbed his 6th peak, making him a member of the SPS. Everyone who started made the summit.
Sunday dawned bright and clear, so at 7 a.m. Burl and I led the small group up the steep Glacier Pass trail to the pass, thence to Sawtooth Pass and on to the impressive summit of Sawtooth. The view was second only to Darwin's. Everyone again made the top. Sawtooth made Mr. and Mrs. Melts' 6th Sierra peak, giving us two more members.
Enroute home everyone again enjoyed a good dinner at Gang Sue's (in Porterville).
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Notes: The originally scheduled leaders were Miles Brubacher and Dick Mosley. The reference to the couple is to Harry and Siina Melts. Sadly, Burl Parkinson was to perish along with Francis Foley on Boundary Peak the following spring.) [ TOP ]
Mount Bradley - 16-May-59 - By: Jerry Keating
From The Sierra Echo (Vol. 3, No. 3), July-August 1959
MT. BRADLEY - By Jerry Keating
A seldom-visited canyon provided the access to the Sierra crest May 16-17 as the Sierra Peaks Section climbed Mt. Bradley (13,280').
Twenty Sierrans assembled at Independence Saturday morning and left their cars at the mouth of Pinyon Canyon. A primitive trail started up the north side of the canyon but soon vanished. The party camped at the last timber on Pinyon Creek and calculated the elevation at 10,200 feet.
Wood was plentiful, and the group enjoyed a warm campfire. The fire was visible in Independence, and several residents called the sheriff's office in the fear someone might be in trouble. Fortunately, the party had checked in with the sheriff before beginning the climb, and deputies assured the callers that everything was in order.
Cold winds buffeted the climbers Sunday morning as they cramponed up a steep snow chute and then walked up the gentle summit slopes. The winds chased the party from the summit, but not until the climbers enjoyed an intimate look at Mt. Williamson and other nearby peaks.
Leaders for the climb, in which everyone reached the summit, were Bud Bingham and Tom Amneus.
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Note: This trip was important in the history of the SPS in that it marked the end or near end of what often were termed "Bingham roasts." While this was a trailless, seldom visited canyon with an apparently ample wood supply, the section recognized that large bonfires were not appropriate for a Sierra Club group. That the fire alarmed residents miles below simply added to that recognition. Fortunately, the sheriff's office knew the SPS party was camped high in the remote canyon. The leaders had notified the sheriff of the group's plans, as was a newly instituted practice for backpacking into remote areas early in the season. That practice was an outgrowth of the deaths in early May of Burl Parkinson and Francis Foley on Boundary Peak. Both being members of the SPS, they had left the Los Angeles Basin on a Friday. When they didn't return home by Monday night, a relative asked for help in finding the missing men. The pair had indicated they planned to climb Boundary and Montgomery, but it wasn't known for certain that that's where they actually were. A Sierra Club search party was organized by Frank Sanborn, and the missing pair's bodies were found in the early evening Wednesday by Bud Bingham and Jon Shinno. [ TOP ]
North Maggie Mountain, Moses Mountain - May 1961 - By: Andy Smatko
From The Sierra Echo (Vol. V, No. 3), May-June 1961
NORTH MAGGIE & MOSES MOUNTAIN
From the camping area at the Ranger Station in Balch Park (snow and mud prevented us from driving all the way to Shake Camp, a distance of over 2 miles), Arky Erb, Mike McNicholas, Tom Ross and I hiked along the trail towards Summit Lake. From a point in a small meadow somewhat north of North Maggie we started up a ridge towards the prominent knob of rock, circled to the left of it and continuing on above it to the right, we climbed to the summit west of the true summit (almost as high). We dropped to the saddle (400') between North Maggie and the west summit and on up. From the summit of North Maggie we dropped down in a NW direction into the wide valley and circled a little in a westerly direction to the trail. Hiking about 20 miles (estimate).
Next day, Sunday, we hiked back almost to the same small meadow, then struck up along a pine-covered ridge on the east face of Moses Mountain. Above the main portion of tree-level the climbing ranged from Class II to pretty high Class III on good rock, and we never knew for sure whether we might not "get hung up" (one should on trips to this mountain carry a rope). On reaching the crest of the ridge about ¼ mile north of the summit there is a sheer drop-off on the west side. This forced us up some steep snow (soft by now) and we gained the summit by traversing along a corniced ridge. There was no register to sign, only a wooden tower left by a survey party. On the west side of the peak we saw the remnants of a huge avalanche that went down for 1,500 feet. Several pinnacles on the ridge are fifth class, quite spectacular. We descended another ridge, which was easier than the one we climbed, although again we couldn't be certain whether it would go all the way. Returned to the car, dinner at Gang Sue's and back home.
Andy Smatko
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Note: The above is the earliest report of a trip to North Maggie that is indexed in The Sierra Echo. The index incorrectly listed it in Vol. V, No. 4, but the report instead appeared in Vol. V. No. 3. Sadly, the text does not include the date of the trip, a private one, but the reader may assume the trip occurred in the late spring of 1961. Gang Sue's is a Chinese restaurant that was often used by SPSers passing through Porterville. [ TOP ]
North Maggie Mountain, Moses Mountain - May-62 - By: John Robinson
From The Sierra Echo (Vol. 6, No. 3), May-June 1962
SNOWSTORM CANCELS NORTH MAGGIE-MOSES TRIP … John Robinson
The SPS seems to be batting 50% on trips into (the) Balch Park region on the heavily forested western side of the Sierra. Two of the four outings into the area scheduled by the section since 1956 have met with foul weather.
The several participants who arrived at Balch Park Friday evening noticed cloudy skies, but encouraged by favorable weather reports expected nothing unusual. After all, this was May and the stormy season was supposedly over.
However, snow began to fall about 2 a.m. and continued on into the late morning, covering the area with about a 5 inch blanket of white. Needless to say, the several carloads of prospective hikers got out while the slippery roads were negotiable.
The cancellation of the trip proved disappointing, especially to Ralph Merten, who was on the ill-fated Sanborn expedition of Nov., 1957. He's batting zero, but still determined to try again.
Perhaps we can reschedule the trip next Oct., when the weather is good (?), the streams (are) low, and the autumn colors (are) at their brightest.
P.S. (written by Bud Bingham): While John cancelled the trip back at Balch Park, 4 carloads of people met at the designated meeting spot, Shake Public Campground. By the time everyone crawled out of the sack Sat. a.m., the entire landscape was white here too! It was quite obvious that the pack-in and climb had to be cancelled. Everyone was disappointed and a discussion seemed to be in order. Plans were made to drive to California Hot Springs for a swim, have lunch, then see if there could be any change in the weather.
The swim was enjoyable, but the weather did not look very encouraging. Sat. night camp was made northwest of Johnsondale in a beautifully timbered area just below the snow line. Everyone enjoyed their dinner around a pleasant campfire. Sat. night's sleep was not interrupted by snow or rain. Sunday, the visibility was still poor and most everyone returned home.
B.B.
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Note: This trip is among the earliest scheduled attempts on North Maggie and Moses. Although specific dates are not stated in the report, the Angeles Chapter Schedule gave the dates as May 12-13, 1962, with the leaders shown as John Robinson and Bud Bingham.) [ TOP ]
Mount Muah, Wonoga Peak - 24-Oct-64 - By: Frank Sanborn
FROM THE SIERRA ECHO (Vol. 8, No. 5), November-December 1964
MT. MUAH I11,016'), WONOGA PEAK (10,371'), OCTOBER 24-25 (1964) … Frank Sanborn
This next-to-last SPS trip of 1964 was blessed with beautiful, clear, sunny weather, just cool enough to be comfortable. On Saturday, 24 persons met in Lone Pine and caravanned to the Carroll Creek roadhead. Leader Frank Sanborn and assistant Ron Jones conducted the group about a mile up the Little Cottonwood Creek trail, which is the route of a road to be constructed into the Cottonwood Basin. The road is now under construction. Leaving the trail, the hikers followed the crest of the Wonoga Ridge for approximately another mile to Wonoga Peak. A 1½-hour lunch break was enjoyed on top while some of the tigers went on up the ridge toward Mt. Langley. They were attempting to reach Owens View, an 11,000+' promontory on the ridge, but didn't make it. After the 3300-foot gain in elevation, most of us luxuriated in the leisurely lunch. The view of the Owens Valley, the Inyos and the Sierra crest north and south was inspiring in the clear autumn air. Saturday P.M., we car-camped at Cottonwood Camp beside Cottonwood Creek; some ate steak dinners in Lone Pine. We were joined by Jerry and Nancy Keating and their two boys from Sacramento.
The leader's car horn awakened everyone at 5:00 A.M. (Sunday) as the Sierra was bathed in moonlight and soft, warm breezes blew down Cottonwood Canyon. Promptly at 6:00 A.M., 16 hardy climbers assaulted the great, trailless ridge which leads directly from camp 4800 feet in about six miles up to the Sierra crest to the south, between Diaz and Wormhole Canyons. By 9:30 A.M. we were on the Sierra crest escarpment and by 10:30 atop Mt. Muah, enjoying the view of the southern Sierra, the desert ranges to the east, and the nearby bulk of 14,000-foot Mt. Langley. Although strenuous, the 5800-foot climb was easier than anticipated. A leisurely one-hour lunch near the summit of Muah was followed by a swift descent to the escarpment. Then we exulted in what is surely the most exhilarating soft-sand "glissades" in the Sierra, losing 2000 feet in about ten minutes on the steep north slope! We were back at the cars by 2 p.m. [ TOP ]