Yosemite Rock Stars Turn Movie Stars

Filming the wild and sometimes treacherous history of Yosemite Valley climbing

By Madison Kotack

December 4, 2014

In Valley Uprising, co-creator Nick Rosen (left) chronicles the Yosemite Valley rock climbing culture and pioneers like Lynn Hill.

In Valley Uprising, co-creator Nick Rosen chronicles the Yosemite Valley rock climbers like Lynn Hill (below).

Sender Films' Valley Uprising traces the wild and sometimes treacherous history of climbing in Yosemite Valley, portraying the national park as the iconic backdrop for the evolution of the sport and its crazy subculture. "Making a film about Yosemite was a no-brainer," co-creator Nick Rosen told Sierra. "It's been at the heart of American climbing for over 60 years." Unsurprisingly, recounting the complex cultural history of Yosemite's climbing community—which includes dozens of unruly characters, plenty of illegal activity, and rabble-rousers who've clashed with the National Park Service since the first bolt was hammered into El Capitan—wasn't easy. 

What was the hardest part of filming Valley Uprising?

Finding the right recipe for the story. The film tries to do a lot of things: tell the history of Yosemite, follow the progression of climbing, and express this idea of counterculture. 

How much footage didn't make the cut?

A ton. We actually had to cut some parts that included the Sierra Club. John Muir was technically the first Yosemite climber and really established the lifestyle. Other pioneers, like Dave Brower and Royal Robbins, discovered climbing through Bay Area and Los Angeles chapters of the Sierra Club. 

Valley Uprising: Dirctor Nick Rosen	Nick Rosen, Valley Uprising Who is your favorite character?

Lynn Hill, for me, is the most counterculture. She came onto the climbing scene at a time when there weren't as many women and became one of the leading climbers of her generation.

I love that she did the first free ascent of "The Nose" route on El Capitan, before any of the guys.

That was the landmark achievement of climbing in that era. She was blowing the guys away and doing things nobody had done in a sport dominated by macho dudes. 

Is there a difference between the pioneers and the current crop of Yosemite climbers?

There's more continuity than anything. Even today, Alex Honnold is a pioneer in the art of free solo climbing. He's a departure from that classic outlaw spirit earlier Yosemite climbers had—he just goes with the flow. And then you have Dean Potter, who is carrying the torch of that rebel spirit established 60 years ago. 

Is there a rivalry between Dean and Alex?

There's definitely competition between those guys, but it's not vicious or personal. The one-upmanship within each generation is what drives the progression of climbing. 

You must have seen some pretty crazy stuff while filming.

It was hard to watch daredevils like Dean and Alex climb with no rope at the limit of their ability, and even harder to film. They're constantly on the verge of falling thousands of feet. 

You're obviously not afraid of heights either.

I wouldn't say that. We'd hike up the back of El Capitan and then rappel down to film. Lowering over the lip to an immediate 3,000 feet of abyss is a chilling feeling. I'm not hard-core enough for that to be easy. 

One thing that surprised me was the ongoing conflict between climbers and park rangers. Were you hoping the film would make RANGERS more lenient with climbers who break park rules?

I mean, look, this is a fun movie. This is not a policy film. We're just giving the perspective of this counterculture in Yosemite. Personally, I hope the film spurs debate in the halls of the National Park Service with respect to user groups like climbers. It seems natural that climbers and rangers would work together. 

It sounds like environmentalism might be the common link.

Totally. They've been working together on the Yosemite Facelift [a volunteer park-wide cleanup] for a few years, and they're unified in their love of nature and environmentalism. Climbing has a rich history in Yosemite, and it's become a tourist attraction just like the waterfalls and big walls. 

What's your environmental vice?

I eat a fair amount of meat. I'm working on that.

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Want more? Read "Why Valley Uprising Rocks," or watch the official Valley Uprising trailer below: