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The Trip

At the southern extremity of Georgia lies the largest swamp in North America, where a world of fascinations awaits those who enter upon its dark, life-rich waters. A moody paradise of approximately 700 square miles, it is called Okefenokee (meaning "land of the trembling earth") for the floating islands of peat, slowly colonized by grasses, shrubs, and trees, that quiver when a person walks on them. Kayaking the Okefenokee Swamp is an experience that you will remember for a lifetime. As you glide along on the water and your paddle dips in and out, alligators also glide nearby through the same tea-colored water. Herons and egrets wade through tall grasses and water lilies while Florida cooters (turtles) sun themselves on fallen logs, plopping into the water if we approach too closely. The magic does not end on the water. As you hike through the park, you will see countless varieties of wildflowers in the nearby fields. Dawn and dusk are prime wildlife viewing times. "Night magic" occurs in the dark, as you hear a symphony of frogs, barred owls, insects, and even bellowing alligators fill the night sky with a chorus of sound.

A peat bog spanning 38 by 25 miles, the Okefenokee is the country's largest swamp; the Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge, embracing 90 percent of the swamp, is the largest refuge in the East. About 90 percent of the refuge, in turn, is protected as a national wilderness area, which means a vast majority of the swamp has been returned to its original inhabitants -- the sandhill cranes, herons, bears, alligators, and snakes that make the Okefenokee one of the great wildlife sanctuaries in the Southeast. Wet prairies, sandy pine islands, and cypress forests interweave to form a variegated landscape of greens, browns, and grays. The purple of pickerelweed, the white and yellow of fragrant water lilies, and the sunny gold of orange milkwort also add to this fireworks of color. The water of the Okefenokee is dark and very much like the color of strong tea. Tannic acid that comes from decaying vegetation causes the discoloration of the water. About 85 percent of the Okefenokee's water flows southwest to form the Suwanee River, which empties into the Gulf of Mexico 240 miles away in the state of Florida; the other 15 percent flows eastward for 175 miles with the St. Mary's River to the Atlantic Ocean, forming part of the Florida-Georgia border along the way. Geologically, the swamp is young, having been formed in the early Pleistocene, when the coastline lay about 75 miles farther inland. A saucer-shaped depression was separated from the receding ocean by an ancient barrier dune, now called Trail Ridge, and once the water changed from salty to fresh, plants began to take hold. Until about 1850, the Okefenokee was inhabited by Creek Indians. After the Indians were driven out, the swamp was inhabited by white settlers who hunted, fished, and lived off the land. In 1891, a timber company attempted to drain the area, and the Suwanee Canal, a long, straight ditch that crosses the swamp, is evidence of its failure. Nevertheless, the Okefenokee was heavily logged for about 35 years, leaving vast expanses of stumps and a number of logging camps, now ghost towns. Much credit for preserving the great swamp goes to Francis Harper, a naturalist who made his first visit in 1912 with a team of biologists. Harper explored the swamp and collected specimens and folklore for several decades. Finally, in 1937, his efforts and those of other environmentalists convinced Franklin D. Roosevelt to create the 438,000 acre Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge.

Located on Georgia's Colonial Coast, Crooked River State Park offers cozy facilities in a beautiful setting. The cabins that we stay in are located right on the Crooked River. The sunrise on the river is amazing and well worth getting up early for each morning. The sunrise and river are both visible from the porch of the cabins. A nature trail winds through maritime forest and salt marsh, and hikers may see gopher tortoises, fiddler crabs, herons, and other coastal birds. As we put in at the Crooked River State Park boat ramp and paddle the Crooked River and salt marshes, we will likely see dolphins as well as countless birds. Crooked River State Park is located in St Mary's, Georgia. Historic St Mary's enchanting storybook setting on the St Mary's River beckons with white picket fences, charming Victorian inns, majestic magnolias, stately live oaks, fragrant salt air, alluring waters, and quaint shops. St Mary's is the gateway to spectacular Cumberland Island -- one of the largest of the Georgia Coast's Barrier Islands. From the dock of the St Mary's Waterfront, we board the Cumberland Queen, which will ferry us to Cumberland Island on a 45 minute trip down the St Mary's River and across Cumberland Sound. No supplies are available on the island, so we must bring all supplies with us.

Cumberland Island has been described as one of "Georgia 's Gems." Its precious nature as a barrier island protects the mainland from erosion, provides habitats for animal and plant life, and renews one's spirit by displaying a rare and genuine beauty. Travelers looking for an experience of a lifetime should put beloved Cumberland Island at the top of their list. The island has much to explore, including deserted beaches, sun-dappled maritime forests, shimmering freshwater lakes, golden marshes, and grand historic ruins. With visitation limited to 300 people a day, hikers and beachcombers can experience the tranquility and solitude that is the hallmark of a visit to Cumberland Island.

Three major natural communities dominate the island: The western salt marsh, mid-island maritime forest, and the eastern beach. The rich salt marsh is the first natural community visitors will encounter on their way to the island. Scientists believe marshlands are the most productive land areas on earth and play a vital role in the nutrient cycle of the estuary. With their wealth of nutrients, marshlands support large populations of shellfish, fish, plants, and bird life. Raccoons, birds, and other animals come down from uplands to feed on crabs and shellfish. Fiddler crabs scurry across mud flats. Wading birds are seen stalking fish and marsh creatures. Atlantic bottlenosed dolphins swim in the tidal rivers. From the dock, visitors can hike into an upland forest of oaks, pines, cedar, and saw palmetto. Most beautiful are the maritime forests of salt-pruned live oaks, draped in Spanish moss, which forms an unbroken green canopy that protects visitors from the harsh rays of the sun. As one breaks out of the green dome of the forest onto the dunes and beach, it takes a moment to adjust to the blinding light reflected off the white sands of the dunes. Dunes on Cumberland can be spectacular, with some as high as 40 feet. The island's long, deserted beaches are the most attractive on the Georgia coast to loggerhead turtles, which have averaged 198 nests a year in the last 10 or so years. The entire island is on the Colonial Coast Birding Trail, as more than 277 species of birds have been identified on Cumberland Island .

Itinerary

This itinerary is subject to change due to weather, water levels, tides, permits, or other unforeseen factors. Safety is our top priority. Detailed directions will be sent to all participants. Sierra Club leaders are not allowed to transport participants in personal vehicles. We will have one personal van to transport kayaks, paddles, pfd's, and gear. Participants are expected to drive themselves and help shuttle each other throughout the week -- we strongly encourage car pooling and sharing rental cars. We will essentially caravan to our various destinations.

Day 1: We will assemble as a group at Stephen C. Foster State Park, Georgia at 3 p.m. IMPORTANT NOTE: There is also a Stephen Foster State Park in Florida, but we are at the Georgia State Park with a C in the middle. We will assign cabins, check everyone in, do introductions, and give paddling instruction. We hope to get out on the water for 1-2 hours (we have to be off the water by 7 p.m.) before having a late dinner. Directions will be sent to participants before the outing. Stephen C. Foster is approximately a 2-hour drive from Jacksonville Airport and a 3.5-hour drive from the Orlando Airport .

Day 2: An exciting day as we paddle through "The Narrows," where the headwaters of the Suwanee River originate. There is a visitor center next to our cabins as well as the nearby Suwanee River Visitor Center. You will have a few hours to explore the area on your own before dinner and we will go on a group night hike that evening.

Day 3: Probably our longest and most action-packed day. We pack up and get an early start, traveling 75 miles to the Suwanee Canal Recreation Area on the east side of Okefenokee. We will pass the "Trail Ridge" on the drive over and paddle remnants of the Suwanee Canal. We will also stop at the visitor center, an old homestead, and do a short hike to an observation tower where the view is incredible. We will stop off for a group dinner (not included in trip price) on our way to Crooked River, a short 45-minute drive away, where we then settle into our new cabins.

Day 4: We take the ferry boat over to Cumberland Island where we have an entire day to take in the island. For an additional $16, you can rent a bike and the leaders will take you on a bike tour of the island.

You can also opt to go on a short 4-mile hike, listen to a ranger presentation, visit historical ruins, go beachcombing on miles of secluded beach, or just relax. Ocean water temperatures average in the 70s in late April. There are no supplies on the island, so we must bring all supplies, lunch, etc. with us. A day pack makes it easy to lug your gear around all day.

We need to be sure to catch the 4:30 p.m. ferry back to St Mary's or we will be spending the night on Cumberland! If anyone has enough energy left after dinner, a short evening paddle is an option.

Day 5: We will do a short morning paddle and then you have the rest of the day to enjoy Crooked River State Park, Historic St Mary's, or other nearby attractions. We will have an early dinner and then drive an hour to the east side of Okefenokee. We will put in and do an evening/night paddle. Headlamps and insect repellant are a must!

Day 6: We will shuttle to and paddle a section of the St Mary's River today. The old timers used to tell about the old sailing ships coming up the St. Mary's River to fill their water barrels for their long trip across the Atlantic. It was the only water that would stay fresh for the entire voyage. We will have a group dinner in St Mary's tonight (not included in trip price).

Day 7: We will have breakfast, make lunches, and pack up. A short morning paddle is planned and the trip will be complete by early afternoon. Jacksonville Airport is approximately a 45-minute drive from St Mary's and the Orlando Airport is about 3.5 hours away.

Getting There

Jacksonville, Florida has the closest major airport. It is about a 2-hour drive from Jacksonville to Stephen Foster State Park (trip starting point) and about a 45-minute drive from Crooked River State Park back to Jacksonville (trip ending point). Orlando, Florida is a slightly longer drive -- 3 to 4 hours each way -- but generally has lower airfares as well as many more scheduled and direct flights. In order to fully experience this area and all it has to offer, we will drive approximately 250 miles from trip start to trip end. Participants are encouraged to carpool and will be asked to help shuttle each other throughout the week. A group roster and directions will be provided to all participants several months in advance.

Accommodations and Food

We will spend two nights at Stephen C. Foster State Park and four nights at Crooked River State Park, both Georgia State Parks.

Stephen C. Foster and Crooked River State Park accommodations will be private cabins within the park. The gate to Stephen C. Foster is locked at 10 p.m. and you are locked in or out for the night at that time. The gate to Crooked River is also locked but can be opened 24/7 with a key code. Each cabin has two bedrooms with two double beds in each room. The cabins are surprisingly nice to most people and have many modern amenities, including: refrigerators, microwaves, stoves, dishwashers, televisions, showers, and flush toilets. Participants coming alone will share rooms -- two per room. The leaders will prepare most meals, but everyone is expected to take turns cleaning up. Participants will make their own lunch each day. Two dinners (most likely Tuesday and Friday) are NOT INCLUDED in the trip price. We will go as a group to a local restaurant and each participant will cover his/her own dinner these two evenings. Meals on the outing will be varied with an emphasis on local dishes using seafood, pork, and chicken. Vegetarians can be accommodated with prior notice. Your meals start with dinner on Day 1 and end with lunch on Day 7, with the exception of the two group dinners that are not covered.

Trip Difficulty

You need not be an expert kayaker to go on this outing, but you should have some previous paddling experience. We will paddle 8-12 miles per day, which means about 4-6 hours on the water most days. Paddling the Okefenokee and its tributaries is relatively easy for most people, with some potential portaging through low water, fallen trees or branches, or other obstacles being the only major issue. A few of our planned paddles will involve coastal paddling, which can be more challenging with open water, wind, tides, and boat traffic. No one will be asked to go beyond his/her abilities and safety is always our top priority. Your guides are both ACA certified kayak instructors and will go over basic paddling instruction at the beginning of the outing. They will also be available throughout the week to answer questions and help you with your paddling technique as much or as little as you like.

Equipment and Clothing

Kayaks, paddles, and pfd's will be provided. You are welcome to bring along your own favorite paddle or pfd. Good raingear and footwear are essential. As a guideline, the typical daytime temperature will range from the 70s up to the mid 80s, and it may get as cool as the 50s at night. Insect repellant, sunscreen, sunglasses, and a wide brim hat are must-haves. Depending on what you intend to bring with you on the Cumberland Island day trip (no supplies are available on the island), you may want to bring a day pack to carry your gear. You will need to bring a headlamp ($10 at discount stores) and flashlight for two to three night paddles and hikes. Depending on rain levels, an insect head net may be useful for evening and night. A full equipment list, directions, and trip roster will be e-mailed to all participants prior to the outing.

References

• Georgia Coast and Okefenokee, Richard J. Lenz, RR Donnelley and Sons, 1999 (I highly recommend this book. It covers the entire outing-my favorite book on this area!)

• Paddling Okefenokee NWR, David O'Neil, Falcon Publishing, 1998

• The Okefenokee Swamp, Franklin Russell, Time-Life Books, 1973

• The History of the Okefenokee Swamp, Alexander McQueen, Jacobs and Co., Clinton , SC , 1926

• National Geographic Guide to America's Outdoors: Southeast, Thompson, National Geographic Society, 2000

• Cumberland Island: A Treasure of Memories, Larry F. Andrews, World Publications, 2007

• National Geographic Video: Realm of the Alligator, 1987 (A classic!)

National Park Service Websites: Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge; Cumberland Island National Seashore

Conservation

1) The worst forest fires in Georgia's history raced through and burned much of the Okefenokee NWR in the spring of 2007. We will see many of these burned areas up close on this outing, and you will be amazed at how fast these areas have regenerated. We will discuss why forest fires, although they can be a nuisance in some areas, are a crucial part of nature. Pine tree cones that only germinate when they are heated by fire are just one example.

2) The National Park Service has maintained a low-impact environment on Cumberland Island for years with only 300 visitors allowed on the island per day. Ferry boat is the only way to and from the island, and foot and bicycle travel were the only way for visitors to travel the primitive roads, the 18 miles of beach, and 30 miles of trail on the island. This situation changed in 2009 when the National Park Service approved a motorized tram on the island. We will discuss the pros and cons of adding motorized transport, which has yet to be physically implemented, to this pristine environment. Those who wish to rent bicycles will be able to easily travel the island roads and experience this low-impact environment firsthand. The leaders will give you a guided bike tour of the island.

3) We will carry trash bags with us as we paddle throughout the week and pick up any trash that we find along the way -- the bulk of which is usually empty bottles and cans floating in the water.

Trip Price

See the How to Apply for an Outing section for more details on registering for this trip and details about our Reservation and Cancellation Policy.

The payment of a deposit does not confirm you as a member on the trip. Participants must be approved by the trip leader. After signing up for this trip, you will be sent a confirmation packet containing approval materials (Participant Approval Questionnaire, Medical Form, Liability Release Form). Each applicant (including those on the waitlist) must fill out these forms and promptly mail them to the trip leader. The leader will review the approval materials and notify you of your acceptance in a timely manner.

Staff

John Kovacevic is certified as a Wilderness First Responder and is also an ACA certified kayak instructor. He has led outings in the Southeast and Rocky Mountain regions for Sierra Club Outings and looks forward to exploring new areas and developing unique new outings. John has paddled and hiked all across the U.S. and gets outdoors as often as he can, with the coastal Southeast being his favorite paddling destination.

E-mail: JKOVACEVIC@msn.com

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General Notes About Sierra Club Trips

• Carpooling
• How to Apply for a Trip
• Liability Release and Assumption of Risk
• Medical Issues
• Participant Approval
• Standard Trip Equipment
• Travel Insurance
• Trip Feedback
• Legal Information
• Seller of Travel Disclosure