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The Trip

In the Land of the Midnight Sun, the tundra north of the Arctic Circle is bathed in 24-hour daylight as winter gives way to spring and then summer. During this time, visitors to this area of the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge have the opportunity to see wild rivers rushing with snowmelt, ranging predators, migrating birds, prolific wildflowers, and, with luck, the annual migration of the vast Porcupine Caribou Herd as it returns from Canada to its ancestral calving grounds on the coastal plain.

Covering a great variety of terrain, our circular route is designed to explore a seldom-visited area of the Refuge in the foothills of the Brooks Range, east of the Jago river valley. From this vast river valley, we will explore rolling tundra/tussock fields and wander on the edge of the coastal plain before heading south -- up river -- crossing a swampy moose habitat and eventually climbing over a narrow, rocky pass to our starting point.

Our small group will likely be the only people you see during the whole time in the Arctic Refuge. Although our route is rated Moderate overall, some days will be strenuous, as we travel over uneven terrain, cross numerous creeks and rivers, and traverse a challenging mountain pass. River conditions, weather, injury, or other circumstances may necessitate that we modify our plans, so a flexible attitude will be essential.

This trip of a lifetime combines scenic adventure and conservation. By visiting the Refuge, participants will come to appreciate more fully this vast, remote, and wild expanse, while gaining a deeper understanding of its unique status as the most significant wilderness area remaining in the United States. Additionally, it will provide an opportunity to explore some of the economic and conservation issues confronting Alaska and concerns about the exploitation of its natural resources.

Itinerary

The trip begins in Fairbanks, Alaska with a 9 a.m. scheduled flight to the Gwich'in settlement of Arctic Village. Our group will then be shuttled by a three-passenger bush plane in a spectacular flight to our tundra strip destination deep in the heart of the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge.

With a truly bird's-eye view of the spectacular Brooks Range, we'll observe the ever-receding glaciers high in the mountains, and often Dall sheep, caribou, wolves, and other wildlife. These flights take up the majority of the day and are included in the trip price.

Starting from our camp near the landing strip, we will make our way north down the dramatic Jago river valley to where we will have our first layover camp for two nights. A day hike from there will allow us the opportunity to climb a neighboring peak and look over the vast expanse of the coastal plain, sloping down to the Arctic Ocean -- the historic calving grounds of the Porcupine caribou herd.

We'll then head east over rolling hills, crossing a few smaller rivers and wander out onto the plain, on our way to the Aichilik River. There our first food cache will be waiting, having lightened our load for the first few days. We'll then hike up river past vast tussock fields and rocky cliffs to the location of our second layover camp. Dayhiking to see another river valley or simply relaxing close to this beautiful campsite may pose a difficult choice. Eventually, with our packs at their lightest, we'll tackle the tough ascent of a remote pass before finally dropping back down to our starting point on the banks of the Jago, where a fine and hearty repast will be awaiting us in our second food cache.

We should average six to seven miles of moderate hiking per day on travel days. Most elevation gains are not significant, with our greatest altitude being just over 4,000 feet.

Although there are no trails in the Arctic Refuge, many of our routes follow gravel bars and the firm tundra near streams. Often, we'll find ourselves hiking the same routes as caribou and moose and it's not uncommon to encounter wildlife on these treks. We'll cross some challenging tussock-covered terrain, but the pace will be unhurried, allowing time for observing, photographing, and simply enjoying the unspoiled natural surroundings. Looking out on these endless vistas can be awe-inspiring, and this area is incredible for birding and wildlife-watching. For those who are taken by the flora, the endless daylight allows for a time-lapsed experience as the land greens and blooms virtually before our eyes.

Getting There

Trip members are responsible for arranging their own transportation to Fairbanks. It is highly recommended that you arrive at least one day (preferably two days) before the trip start date to allow for delayed luggage or missed connections. Departure flights from Fairbanks should be scheduled at least one full day after the trip end date as weather conditions and other factors often delay the charter flight out of the Refuge.

Accommodations and Food

Accommodations in Fairbanks are not included in the trip price, but trip leaders have made reservations for everyone at a great bed-and-breakfast close to downtown, and encourage the group to stay together.

All meals and snacks from lunch on the first day to lunch on the last day of the trip are included in the trip price. As on most Sierra Club trips, all meals will be prepared and eaten as a group, and participants will take turns preparing meals and cleaning up. Our menu will be vegetarian friendly. Special dietary considerations may be accommodated if leaders are notified in advance.

Trip Difficulty

We will be hiking in a vast and rugged wilderness area where few people travel and using wildlife trails, if any. This trip is rated Moderate because of the relatively modest mileage and elevation gains. However, with heavy packs and the highly variable nature of Arctic weather and wilderness travel, some days will be strenuous. Therefore, participants should be in good physical condition and have experience backpacking over rough terrain for extended periods and in adverse weather conditions with field-tested gear. While gravel bars and firm tundra benches will be our preferred hiking surfaces, we will also be travelling across rocky riverbeds and boggy, unstable tussock fields. Multiple stream crossings will also be necessary, so participants should be prepared for the possibility of wet feet on some travel days. Our circuit will cover approximately 54 miles; not including day hikes.

Equipment and Clothing

The Sierra Club provides all group gear, including: stoves, cooking gear, cooking tarp, food and snacks, satellite phone (emergency use only), repair kit, bear repellent spray, water treatment, and first aid kit. Participants will provide all personal medicines, toiletries, moleskin, tape, toilet paper, etc.

The weather in the Refuge at this time of year is usually mild, with temperatures in the 50s and 60s, but can change quickly and be colder or warmer. Wind-chill can be a major factor and you should anticipate and be prepared for strong sun, fog, drizzle, heavy rain, strong winds, and possibly snow.

There is little opportunity to seek refuge from the weather except in our tents, so participants should have equipment that allows them to camp and be active in these weather conditions.

The remoteness of the Refuge requires us to be self-sufficient for the duration of the trip. Proper equipment selection is critical. All equipment should be field-tested before departure. Participants are strongly encouraged to bring only high-quality lightweight gear that is in good condition. The required equipment includes: tent, backpack, rain gear, clothing, and mess kit. All gear will be inspected prior to departure to ensure the safety and comfort of all participants in this remote wilderness. Each participant will be expected to carry about 18 pounds of group food and gear, so it is essential that personal gear is limited. Confirmed participants will receive a detailed equipment list.

References

Our entire route will be covered by the USGS 1:250,000 DEMARCATION POINT, AK map. More detailed maps (1:63,360) are DEMARCATION POINT B-4, AK, DEMARCATION POINT B-5, AK and DEMARCATION POINT C-4, AK. These maps can be obtained from the USGS as well as other outlets.

Books

•  Field Guide to the Arctic, E. C. Pielou. ( University of Chicago Press). This book won the Western Book Award for Creative Nonfiction in 1995. This is readable natural history and science.

•  The Last Great Wilderness: The Campaign to Establish the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge, Roger Kaye (University of Alaska Press 2006). History of the effort and political dealings to establish the Refuge.

•  Midnight Wilderness-Journeys in Alaska's Arctic National Wildlife Refuge, Debbie S. Miller (Alaska Northwest Books 1990 and 2000). An excellent compilation of the author's journeys in the Refuge.

•  Under the Arctic Sun-Gwich'in, Caribou and; the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge, Ken Madsen (Earthtales Press 2002).

•  Ordinary Wolves, Seth Kantner. Recent novel about growing up in modern Inupiat culture.

•  Arctic Dreams, Barry Lopez.

•  Earth and the Great Weather, Kenneth Brower. A rich resource on the Brooks Range.

•  Vanishing Arctic, T. H. Watkins. A comprehensive study of the Refuge and its future.

Websites

•  US Fish and Wildlife Service/Arctic National Wildlife Refuge
http://arctic.fws.gov/index.htm

•  NOAA National Weather Service for Fairbanks, AK
http://pafg.arh.noaa.gov/

•  Arctic Refuge Action Coalition
http://www.arcticrefugeaction.org/

Conservation

The Arctic Refuge is one of the last intact ecological systems in the world and is under considerable political pressure for development. To date, efforts to designate the Refuge as wilderness have been rejected outright and there is an ongoing effort to open the Refuge to energy development. Protecting this unique ecosystem is among the highest priorities of nearly every major environmental organization. Trip participants will not only learn about current developments, but they'll also learn how to keep informed of future developments and to become advocates for protection of this important area.

Travel in Alaska and the Arctic

Sierra Club outings in Alaska and Arctic Canada are special experiences in true wilderness, but they also carry an element of risk. Trip locales are often remote, away from the amenities of civilization, including sophisticated medical care and immediate evacuation possibilities. Many of our Alaska and Arctic Canada trips now carry satellite phones, but even with this technology, communication with the outside world can be difficult and emergency assistance can be days away. Weather in Alaska and Arctic Canada is unpredictable, and inclement weather can be severe. Among other hazards are cold river and stream crossings, tidal activity, calving glaciers, the psychological effects of remoteness, and the presence of large wild animals. You're in good hands, though, so don't worry: Your trip leaders have vast experience in the Last Frontier, and they'll provide all the guidance you need.

Trip Price

See the How to Apply for an Outing section for more details on registering for this trip and details about our Reservation and Cancellation Policy.

The payment of a deposit does not confirm you as a member on the trip. Participants must be approved by the trip leader. After signing up for this trip, you will be sent a confirmation packet containing approval materials (Participant Approval Questionnaire, Medical Form, Liability Release Form). Each applicant (including those on the waitlist) must fill out these forms and promptly mail them to the trip leader. The leader will review the approval materials and notify you of your acceptance in a timely manner.

Staff

Amy Lutz lives in Spokane, Washington where she can enjoy a variety of outdoor activities including trail running, kayaking, mountain-biking and backpacking with her husband. When she's not outdoors, Amy is a physical education curriculum specialist training PE teachers across the country. Amy enjoys the experiences that Alaska has to offer and is looking forward to returning.

E-mail: teamdoublelutz@msn.com

 

Dodging TV editing work in Los Angeles, Jonas Wickham leads Sierra Club trips in Alaska and the Rocky Mountains. He's traveled and backpacked on five continents and made a home on three. He's thrilled to share the sense of discovery and adventure these wild places evoke. This will be his seventh trip into this area. Jonas welcomes and encourages any questions you may have.

Email: jonaswickham@gmail.com

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General Notes About Sierra Club Trips

• Carpooling
• How to Apply for a Trip
• Liability Release and Assumption of Risk
• Medical Issues
• Participant Approval
• Standard Trip Equipment
• Travel Insurance
• Trip Feedback
• Legal Information
• Seller of Travel Disclosure