Photo: Wendy Van Norden Bears of Katmai: A Backpacking Adventure, Alaska Highlights:
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Trip Number: 09019A Price: $1825 Deposit: $200 Capacity: 10 Leader:
The Trip  Photo: Wendy Van Norden We will see grizzly bears in Katmai National Park, probably before our plane even lands. The bears will be busy eating salmon and can be viewed safely by following sensible guidelines. Katmai is renowned for its brown bear population. The bears, although the same species as a “grizzly” bear, are considerably larger than their inland cousins. Males can weigh over 1,000 lbs. There are between 40-60 bears present at Brooks Camp and vicinity during our stay which coincides with the world’s greatest sockeye salmon run. Brooks Camp, with its viewing platform for bear viewing at Brooks Falls, is the ideal place for photography. However, we will be happy to leave the hordes of photographers behind, as we head into the rugged wilderness and have the opportunity to see the park in a quieter, more pristine setting. Participants will be instructed in safe conduct practices for bear country. Katmai is a land created by fire and ice. In 1912 a volcanic eruption covered a valley with 100-700 feet of volcanic ash and debris. The valley no longer has “10,000 Smokes” created by steam from the cooling lava, but it has a surreal landscape of great beauty.  Photo: Wendy Van Norden The valley area is desert-like, so the most notable features in the valley will be the colors and the geology, rather than the wildlife. Rivers have carved dramatic gorges through the ash. Although there are as many as 17 active volcanoes in the park, none of them are presently erupting. We will visit lakes at the base of the larger volcanoes, which are carved by glaciers. We will also visit the Novarupta Caldera area, where active fumaroles steam and warm spring areas form bright green oases in the desert-like environment of the valley. Please understand the weather in Alaska is unpredictable. It may rain, it may be windy, and we may have to modify the following itinerary. In order to see such an extraordinary place it is necessary to take some chances.
 Photo: Wendy Van Norden Day 1: Fly from King Salmon to Brooks Camp in Katmai National Park. View bears at Brooks Falls and stay in NPS campground. Day 2-8: Take shuttle to Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes and begin 7 day backpack. We plan to backpack at a moderate pace, covering 6 or so miles per day. There are no trails in the area, and river crossings are not bridged. Be prepared for wet feet. Our current route calls for a loop trip of approximately 30 miles, starting along the Lethe River and heading towards the lakes at the base of Mt. Mageik. We will circle around the Novarupta volcano and Broken Mountain areas, hiking alongside the Knife Creek Glaciers and looking up at Mt. Katmai, elevation 6,715 feet. We will then continue our loop by dropping down to Knife Creek. We will parallel Knife Creek while gazing up at Mt. Griggs, 7,500 feet. Depending on the strength of our group and our final itinerary, we may have several layover days during the loop. Possible optional side trips include a trip over Katmai Pass, a summit of Mt. Griggs, and exploration of the areas around Mt. Juhle, Mt. Ikagluik and the Ukak River. Day 8, 9: Return to Brooks Camp and stay in NPS campground. More bear viewing, optional day hike up Dumpling Mountain, optional fishing (fishing is GREAT this time of year). Day 10: Fly from Brooks Camp to King Salmon. Getting There Trip members are advised to fly into King Salmon, our starting point, early enough to be ready for travel on the morning of day one. Participants may choose to stay either in King Salmon or in Anchorage prior to the start of the trip. Your guides can help set up group accommodations in King Salmon or provide suggestions for lodging in Anchorage. Alaska Airlines and PenAir have a regularly scheduled 8 a.m. flight from Anchorage to King Salmon. Participants are responsible for their flight to King Salmon. It is recommended that participants arrive in Alaska two days prior to the start of the trip to account for lost luggage and last minute purchases.
In Brooks Camp we will be staying at a National Park Service campground, which is provided with an electric fence to discourage bears and with storage cabins for food and gear. While backpacking we will store food in bear-proof containers and avoid bear trails. All meals and snacks are included in the trip fee, beginning with lunch on day one and ending with lunch on the last day. As usual on Sierra Club outings, all members help with cooking and cleanup chores. Any special diet requirements should be discussed with the leaders well in advance to be sure they can be accommodated. Trip members and leaders will all share in carrying trip food and equipment.
This trip is rated as moderate in difficulty. The elevation gain and loss generally will not be more than several hundred feet per day, though optional day hikes may involve more climbing. Additionally, we will have several unbridged river crossings. There are no trails in the valley, so our travel will be cross country. There is a real possibility of strong winds called williwaws blowing through the valley. If we are backpacking during extreme winds, we may have the option of staying in an old USGS shack, which is not scenic, but will be a welcome shelter from the wind. When hiking on a windy day, goggles and a bandana may be useful. In order to see the bears, we must be in Katmai at the same time as the mosquitoes and the black flies (known as white socks). It is strongly recommended that participants use mosquito head nets and mosquito repellant. Rain is likely at any time, and the temperature can range from the 40’s to the 70’s.
The Sierra Club will provide stoves, cooking pots and utensils, water purification tablets, cooking tent, first aid, repair kit, food, and satellite phone. Participants are expected to bring the following:
Conservation Katmai National Park, originally set aside in 1918 and expanded in 1980 by the Alaska National Interest Lands Conservation Act encompasses 4 million acres. Most of that is untrammeled wilderness, but the Brooks Camp area is becoming overused, and it is feared that the thousands of visitors are adversely affecting the area and interfering with the bears. The area has also become a mecca for sports fishermen and hunters, creating a conflict between sportsmen and subsistence use. It will be our responsibility to behave responsibly in bear country, keep a respectful distance from the wildlife, and to Leave No Trace of our presence. Sierra Club outings in Alaska and Arctic Canada are special experiences in true wilderness, but they also carry an element of risk. Trip locales are often remote, away from the amenities of civilization, including sophisticated medical care and immediate evacuation possibilities. Many of our Alaska and Arctic Canada trips now carry satellite phones, but even with this technology, communication with the outside world can be difficult and emergency assistance can be days away. Weather in Alaska and Arctic Canada is unpredictable, and inclement weather can be severe. Among other hazards are cold river and stream crossings, tidal activity, calving glaciers, the psychological effects of remoteness, and the presence of large wild animals. You're in good hands, though, so don't worry: Your trip leaders have vast experience in the Last Frontier, and they'll provide all the guidance you need.
See the How to Apply for an Outing section for more details on registering for this trip and details about our Reservation and Cancellation Policy. The payment of a deposit does not confirm you as a member on the trip. Participants must be approved by the trip leader. After signing up for this trip, you will be sent a confirmation packet containing approval materials (Participant Approval Questionnaire, Medical Form, Liability Release Form). Each applicant (including those on the waitlist) must fill out these forms and promptly mail them to the trip leader. The leader will review the approval materials and notify you of your acceptance in a timely manner.
General Notes About Sierra Club Trips
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Marybeth Dingledy grew up on the east coast, then migrated west to Seattle in 1995. After picking up a hiking book in a used book store, she discovered her true passion -- backpacking. She has backpacked extensively through the Pacific Northwest, including weeklong trips in Oregon's Eagle Cap Wilderness, Mt. Rainier National Park, and the west coast trail on Vancouver Island, British Columbia. In 2006, she soloed the John Muir Trail. Her love affair with Alaska began when she joined her parents on an RV trip in 2001. She vowed to return and experience the dramatic Alaskan scenery on her own terms. When not on the trail, Marybeth enjoys cooking, gardening, and playing soccer.